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Prime joint compound before latex paint?



The 2019 Stack Overflow Developer Survey Results Are InHow long does setting-type joint compound have to dry before priming?how long should I let latex paint dry before installing outlet covers and other fixtures?Are there differences to drywall joint compound and plaster?I have to put a second coat of Sheetrock joint compound on a patch job, do I need to wet the first coat?Will joint compound / drywall mud clog my drain?Painting oil base over latex paint using a latex primerJoint Compound was too dry, now whatWhat kind of joint compound over plywoodCan I prime/paint these walls?Accidentally Used Topping Compound for Taping Drywall Joint. What To Do?



.everyoneloves__top-leaderboard:empty,.everyoneloves__mid-leaderboard:empty,.everyoneloves__bot-mid-leaderboard:empty margin-bottom:0;








10















I'm painting a room that had previously been wallpapered. The walls are veneer plaster coated, so the paper was easy to remove and clean the plaster.
However there are patches for wiring, dings and other artifacts of sloppy plastering that I've covered with regular joint compound.



As I start painting (latex) I find that unless I'm really quick and wet across the compound, it starts to come up and ruin the finish.



Should I be spray priming? What do others do about this issue?










share|improve this question






















  • Good question. I always cover those spots with a brush first, as the rolling is when it comes up for me. The downside is that it can alter the texture of the finished wall.

    – Evil Elf
    2 days ago












  • @kris, answers go down there.

    – isherwood
    2 days ago

















10















I'm painting a room that had previously been wallpapered. The walls are veneer plaster coated, so the paper was easy to remove and clean the plaster.
However there are patches for wiring, dings and other artifacts of sloppy plastering that I've covered with regular joint compound.



As I start painting (latex) I find that unless I'm really quick and wet across the compound, it starts to come up and ruin the finish.



Should I be spray priming? What do others do about this issue?










share|improve this question






















  • Good question. I always cover those spots with a brush first, as the rolling is when it comes up for me. The downside is that it can alter the texture of the finished wall.

    – Evil Elf
    2 days ago












  • @kris, answers go down there.

    – isherwood
    2 days ago













10












10








10








I'm painting a room that had previously been wallpapered. The walls are veneer plaster coated, so the paper was easy to remove and clean the plaster.
However there are patches for wiring, dings and other artifacts of sloppy plastering that I've covered with regular joint compound.



As I start painting (latex) I find that unless I'm really quick and wet across the compound, it starts to come up and ruin the finish.



Should I be spray priming? What do others do about this issue?










share|improve this question














I'm painting a room that had previously been wallpapered. The walls are veneer plaster coated, so the paper was easy to remove and clean the plaster.
However there are patches for wiring, dings and other artifacts of sloppy plastering that I've covered with regular joint compound.



As I start painting (latex) I find that unless I'm really quick and wet across the compound, it starts to come up and ruin the finish.



Should I be spray priming? What do others do about this issue?







painting drywall-mud






share|improve this question













share|improve this question











share|improve this question




share|improve this question










asked 2 days ago









DaveMDaveM

924315




924315












  • Good question. I always cover those spots with a brush first, as the rolling is when it comes up for me. The downside is that it can alter the texture of the finished wall.

    – Evil Elf
    2 days ago












  • @kris, answers go down there.

    – isherwood
    2 days ago

















  • Good question. I always cover those spots with a brush first, as the rolling is when it comes up for me. The downside is that it can alter the texture of the finished wall.

    – Evil Elf
    2 days ago












  • @kris, answers go down there.

    – isherwood
    2 days ago
















Good question. I always cover those spots with a brush first, as the rolling is when it comes up for me. The downside is that it can alter the texture of the finished wall.

– Evil Elf
2 days ago






Good question. I always cover those spots with a brush first, as the rolling is when it comes up for me. The downside is that it can alter the texture of the finished wall.

– Evil Elf
2 days ago














@kris, answers go down there.

– isherwood
2 days ago





@kris, answers go down there.

– isherwood
2 days ago










4 Answers
4






active

oldest

votes


















11














A primer is recommended for joint compound. Using a primer seals the mud and actually uses less paint with a even finish in the long run.






share|improve this answer


















  • 4





    The most significant benefit is more even sheen in the finished product.

    – isherwood
    2 days ago


















4














If you find you're doing a lot of patches, buy some "new drywall" primer. It's cheaper and helps you get the new compound ready for paint just as well (it's also latex). It generally is only available in gallons, though (with the assumption you've done a whole room in drywall)



If you're not doing a LOT of patches, consider using a better patch. Joint compound is different from vinyl spackle, and some types of spackle come pre-primed now.






share|improve this answer


















  • 1





    Commonly called PVA Primer, and it can be tinted (like any other primer) to match the paint color if you're using a color other than white.

    – JPhi1618
    2 days ago












  • So you are saying use spackle instead of mud?

    – DaveM
    2 days ago






  • 1





    @DaveM For smaller patches, yes. Spackle doesn't shrink and tends to be a bit stiffer, so it fills larger holes better. And 3M, for instance, makes a pre-primed spackle

    – Machavity
    2 days ago


















2














Huh? Of course you will. Always.



Anytime you put topcoat paint on a surface that is inconsistent, it will show inconsistent results. The topcoat will react differently to different surfaces, leaving a different texture that will be noticeable.



That is the entire point of primer. You paint primer over the mixed surface, the primer seals it, and after 1-2 coats (possibly with some help from sanding or filler in between primer coats) you have a surface that is uniform (consistent/the same) - it's all dried primer. The topcoat applies evenly.



Primer also causes the color to be uniform, because otherwise, underlying different colors will print through (most architectural coatings are near-white, and white paint isn't that opaque).



Primer is optimized to do this. It's also cheaper. Paint can do this too, but it'll take ridiculous numbers of coats of it.






share|improve this answer























  • Sanding a primer is not a concept I'm familiar with

    – DaveM
    2 days ago











  • @DaveM, primer can sometimes make issues worse, or it can react a little with the surface. To get a really even coverage, sanding rough or "odd" spots and reapplying primer can help the end coat.

    – computercarguy
    2 days ago











  • Thanks, understood, it also gums up my sandpaper.

    – DaveM
    2 days ago











  • @DaveM because you're sanding too soon. Wait for it to dry. Yes, applying primer can make a few surfaces bumpy, but, most likely paint would do the same thing. Primer "springs the trap" as it were, then freezes it so it won't do it anymore. At least that's the idea. Also, you often sand just because the surface was already rough and that becomes more visible once primer gives it a uniform appearance.

    – Harper
    2 days ago



















0














It sounds like the joint compound was applied over a paste residue that is reactivating from the moisture in the paint.
It can be very near impossible to get all adhesive washed off of the surface.
That is why I always use a sealer before patching.
Best one I have used is Gardz by Zinnser. It creates a thin barrier coat that locks down containment’s on the surface. After it drys do your patching and sanding followed by spot priming of repairs with same product. –






share|improve this answer























  • I've seen that, but I'm pretty good about getting it clean. If I find a patch I missed, I immediately scrape off the wet paint and glue from the spot, and repaint.

    – DaveM
    2 days ago











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4 Answers
4






active

oldest

votes








4 Answers
4






active

oldest

votes









active

oldest

votes






active

oldest

votes









11














A primer is recommended for joint compound. Using a primer seals the mud and actually uses less paint with a even finish in the long run.






share|improve this answer


















  • 4





    The most significant benefit is more even sheen in the finished product.

    – isherwood
    2 days ago















11














A primer is recommended for joint compound. Using a primer seals the mud and actually uses less paint with a even finish in the long run.






share|improve this answer


















  • 4





    The most significant benefit is more even sheen in the finished product.

    – isherwood
    2 days ago













11












11








11







A primer is recommended for joint compound. Using a primer seals the mud and actually uses less paint with a even finish in the long run.






share|improve this answer













A primer is recommended for joint compound. Using a primer seals the mud and actually uses less paint with a even finish in the long run.







share|improve this answer












share|improve this answer



share|improve this answer










answered 2 days ago









Ed BealEd Beal

34.8k12149




34.8k12149







  • 4





    The most significant benefit is more even sheen in the finished product.

    – isherwood
    2 days ago












  • 4





    The most significant benefit is more even sheen in the finished product.

    – isherwood
    2 days ago







4




4





The most significant benefit is more even sheen in the finished product.

– isherwood
2 days ago





The most significant benefit is more even sheen in the finished product.

– isherwood
2 days ago













4














If you find you're doing a lot of patches, buy some "new drywall" primer. It's cheaper and helps you get the new compound ready for paint just as well (it's also latex). It generally is only available in gallons, though (with the assumption you've done a whole room in drywall)



If you're not doing a LOT of patches, consider using a better patch. Joint compound is different from vinyl spackle, and some types of spackle come pre-primed now.






share|improve this answer


















  • 1





    Commonly called PVA Primer, and it can be tinted (like any other primer) to match the paint color if you're using a color other than white.

    – JPhi1618
    2 days ago












  • So you are saying use spackle instead of mud?

    – DaveM
    2 days ago






  • 1





    @DaveM For smaller patches, yes. Spackle doesn't shrink and tends to be a bit stiffer, so it fills larger holes better. And 3M, for instance, makes a pre-primed spackle

    – Machavity
    2 days ago















4














If you find you're doing a lot of patches, buy some "new drywall" primer. It's cheaper and helps you get the new compound ready for paint just as well (it's also latex). It generally is only available in gallons, though (with the assumption you've done a whole room in drywall)



If you're not doing a LOT of patches, consider using a better patch. Joint compound is different from vinyl spackle, and some types of spackle come pre-primed now.






share|improve this answer


















  • 1





    Commonly called PVA Primer, and it can be tinted (like any other primer) to match the paint color if you're using a color other than white.

    – JPhi1618
    2 days ago












  • So you are saying use spackle instead of mud?

    – DaveM
    2 days ago






  • 1





    @DaveM For smaller patches, yes. Spackle doesn't shrink and tends to be a bit stiffer, so it fills larger holes better. And 3M, for instance, makes a pre-primed spackle

    – Machavity
    2 days ago













4












4








4







If you find you're doing a lot of patches, buy some "new drywall" primer. It's cheaper and helps you get the new compound ready for paint just as well (it's also latex). It generally is only available in gallons, though (with the assumption you've done a whole room in drywall)



If you're not doing a LOT of patches, consider using a better patch. Joint compound is different from vinyl spackle, and some types of spackle come pre-primed now.






share|improve this answer













If you find you're doing a lot of patches, buy some "new drywall" primer. It's cheaper and helps you get the new compound ready for paint just as well (it's also latex). It generally is only available in gallons, though (with the assumption you've done a whole room in drywall)



If you're not doing a LOT of patches, consider using a better patch. Joint compound is different from vinyl spackle, and some types of spackle come pre-primed now.







share|improve this answer












share|improve this answer



share|improve this answer










answered 2 days ago









MachavityMachavity

8,27821941




8,27821941







  • 1





    Commonly called PVA Primer, and it can be tinted (like any other primer) to match the paint color if you're using a color other than white.

    – JPhi1618
    2 days ago












  • So you are saying use spackle instead of mud?

    – DaveM
    2 days ago






  • 1





    @DaveM For smaller patches, yes. Spackle doesn't shrink and tends to be a bit stiffer, so it fills larger holes better. And 3M, for instance, makes a pre-primed spackle

    – Machavity
    2 days ago












  • 1





    Commonly called PVA Primer, and it can be tinted (like any other primer) to match the paint color if you're using a color other than white.

    – JPhi1618
    2 days ago












  • So you are saying use spackle instead of mud?

    – DaveM
    2 days ago






  • 1





    @DaveM For smaller patches, yes. Spackle doesn't shrink and tends to be a bit stiffer, so it fills larger holes better. And 3M, for instance, makes a pre-primed spackle

    – Machavity
    2 days ago







1




1





Commonly called PVA Primer, and it can be tinted (like any other primer) to match the paint color if you're using a color other than white.

– JPhi1618
2 days ago






Commonly called PVA Primer, and it can be tinted (like any other primer) to match the paint color if you're using a color other than white.

– JPhi1618
2 days ago














So you are saying use spackle instead of mud?

– DaveM
2 days ago





So you are saying use spackle instead of mud?

– DaveM
2 days ago




1




1





@DaveM For smaller patches, yes. Spackle doesn't shrink and tends to be a bit stiffer, so it fills larger holes better. And 3M, for instance, makes a pre-primed spackle

– Machavity
2 days ago





@DaveM For smaller patches, yes. Spackle doesn't shrink and tends to be a bit stiffer, so it fills larger holes better. And 3M, for instance, makes a pre-primed spackle

– Machavity
2 days ago











2














Huh? Of course you will. Always.



Anytime you put topcoat paint on a surface that is inconsistent, it will show inconsistent results. The topcoat will react differently to different surfaces, leaving a different texture that will be noticeable.



That is the entire point of primer. You paint primer over the mixed surface, the primer seals it, and after 1-2 coats (possibly with some help from sanding or filler in between primer coats) you have a surface that is uniform (consistent/the same) - it's all dried primer. The topcoat applies evenly.



Primer also causes the color to be uniform, because otherwise, underlying different colors will print through (most architectural coatings are near-white, and white paint isn't that opaque).



Primer is optimized to do this. It's also cheaper. Paint can do this too, but it'll take ridiculous numbers of coats of it.






share|improve this answer























  • Sanding a primer is not a concept I'm familiar with

    – DaveM
    2 days ago











  • @DaveM, primer can sometimes make issues worse, or it can react a little with the surface. To get a really even coverage, sanding rough or "odd" spots and reapplying primer can help the end coat.

    – computercarguy
    2 days ago











  • Thanks, understood, it also gums up my sandpaper.

    – DaveM
    2 days ago











  • @DaveM because you're sanding too soon. Wait for it to dry. Yes, applying primer can make a few surfaces bumpy, but, most likely paint would do the same thing. Primer "springs the trap" as it were, then freezes it so it won't do it anymore. At least that's the idea. Also, you often sand just because the surface was already rough and that becomes more visible once primer gives it a uniform appearance.

    – Harper
    2 days ago
















2














Huh? Of course you will. Always.



Anytime you put topcoat paint on a surface that is inconsistent, it will show inconsistent results. The topcoat will react differently to different surfaces, leaving a different texture that will be noticeable.



That is the entire point of primer. You paint primer over the mixed surface, the primer seals it, and after 1-2 coats (possibly with some help from sanding or filler in between primer coats) you have a surface that is uniform (consistent/the same) - it's all dried primer. The topcoat applies evenly.



Primer also causes the color to be uniform, because otherwise, underlying different colors will print through (most architectural coatings are near-white, and white paint isn't that opaque).



Primer is optimized to do this. It's also cheaper. Paint can do this too, but it'll take ridiculous numbers of coats of it.






share|improve this answer























  • Sanding a primer is not a concept I'm familiar with

    – DaveM
    2 days ago











  • @DaveM, primer can sometimes make issues worse, or it can react a little with the surface. To get a really even coverage, sanding rough or "odd" spots and reapplying primer can help the end coat.

    – computercarguy
    2 days ago











  • Thanks, understood, it also gums up my sandpaper.

    – DaveM
    2 days ago











  • @DaveM because you're sanding too soon. Wait for it to dry. Yes, applying primer can make a few surfaces bumpy, but, most likely paint would do the same thing. Primer "springs the trap" as it were, then freezes it so it won't do it anymore. At least that's the idea. Also, you often sand just because the surface was already rough and that becomes more visible once primer gives it a uniform appearance.

    – Harper
    2 days ago














2












2








2







Huh? Of course you will. Always.



Anytime you put topcoat paint on a surface that is inconsistent, it will show inconsistent results. The topcoat will react differently to different surfaces, leaving a different texture that will be noticeable.



That is the entire point of primer. You paint primer over the mixed surface, the primer seals it, and after 1-2 coats (possibly with some help from sanding or filler in between primer coats) you have a surface that is uniform (consistent/the same) - it's all dried primer. The topcoat applies evenly.



Primer also causes the color to be uniform, because otherwise, underlying different colors will print through (most architectural coatings are near-white, and white paint isn't that opaque).



Primer is optimized to do this. It's also cheaper. Paint can do this too, but it'll take ridiculous numbers of coats of it.






share|improve this answer













Huh? Of course you will. Always.



Anytime you put topcoat paint on a surface that is inconsistent, it will show inconsistent results. The topcoat will react differently to different surfaces, leaving a different texture that will be noticeable.



That is the entire point of primer. You paint primer over the mixed surface, the primer seals it, and after 1-2 coats (possibly with some help from sanding or filler in between primer coats) you have a surface that is uniform (consistent/the same) - it's all dried primer. The topcoat applies evenly.



Primer also causes the color to be uniform, because otherwise, underlying different colors will print through (most architectural coatings are near-white, and white paint isn't that opaque).



Primer is optimized to do this. It's also cheaper. Paint can do this too, but it'll take ridiculous numbers of coats of it.







share|improve this answer












share|improve this answer



share|improve this answer










answered 2 days ago









HarperHarper

76.3k449153




76.3k449153












  • Sanding a primer is not a concept I'm familiar with

    – DaveM
    2 days ago











  • @DaveM, primer can sometimes make issues worse, or it can react a little with the surface. To get a really even coverage, sanding rough or "odd" spots and reapplying primer can help the end coat.

    – computercarguy
    2 days ago











  • Thanks, understood, it also gums up my sandpaper.

    – DaveM
    2 days ago











  • @DaveM because you're sanding too soon. Wait for it to dry. Yes, applying primer can make a few surfaces bumpy, but, most likely paint would do the same thing. Primer "springs the trap" as it were, then freezes it so it won't do it anymore. At least that's the idea. Also, you often sand just because the surface was already rough and that becomes more visible once primer gives it a uniform appearance.

    – Harper
    2 days ago


















  • Sanding a primer is not a concept I'm familiar with

    – DaveM
    2 days ago











  • @DaveM, primer can sometimes make issues worse, or it can react a little with the surface. To get a really even coverage, sanding rough or "odd" spots and reapplying primer can help the end coat.

    – computercarguy
    2 days ago











  • Thanks, understood, it also gums up my sandpaper.

    – DaveM
    2 days ago











  • @DaveM because you're sanding too soon. Wait for it to dry. Yes, applying primer can make a few surfaces bumpy, but, most likely paint would do the same thing. Primer "springs the trap" as it were, then freezes it so it won't do it anymore. At least that's the idea. Also, you often sand just because the surface was already rough and that becomes more visible once primer gives it a uniform appearance.

    – Harper
    2 days ago

















Sanding a primer is not a concept I'm familiar with

– DaveM
2 days ago





Sanding a primer is not a concept I'm familiar with

– DaveM
2 days ago













@DaveM, primer can sometimes make issues worse, or it can react a little with the surface. To get a really even coverage, sanding rough or "odd" spots and reapplying primer can help the end coat.

– computercarguy
2 days ago





@DaveM, primer can sometimes make issues worse, or it can react a little with the surface. To get a really even coverage, sanding rough or "odd" spots and reapplying primer can help the end coat.

– computercarguy
2 days ago













Thanks, understood, it also gums up my sandpaper.

– DaveM
2 days ago





Thanks, understood, it also gums up my sandpaper.

– DaveM
2 days ago













@DaveM because you're sanding too soon. Wait for it to dry. Yes, applying primer can make a few surfaces bumpy, but, most likely paint would do the same thing. Primer "springs the trap" as it were, then freezes it so it won't do it anymore. At least that's the idea. Also, you often sand just because the surface was already rough and that becomes more visible once primer gives it a uniform appearance.

– Harper
2 days ago






@DaveM because you're sanding too soon. Wait for it to dry. Yes, applying primer can make a few surfaces bumpy, but, most likely paint would do the same thing. Primer "springs the trap" as it were, then freezes it so it won't do it anymore. At least that's the idea. Also, you often sand just because the surface was already rough and that becomes more visible once primer gives it a uniform appearance.

– Harper
2 days ago












0














It sounds like the joint compound was applied over a paste residue that is reactivating from the moisture in the paint.
It can be very near impossible to get all adhesive washed off of the surface.
That is why I always use a sealer before patching.
Best one I have used is Gardz by Zinnser. It creates a thin barrier coat that locks down containment’s on the surface. After it drys do your patching and sanding followed by spot priming of repairs with same product. –






share|improve this answer























  • I've seen that, but I'm pretty good about getting it clean. If I find a patch I missed, I immediately scrape off the wet paint and glue from the spot, and repaint.

    – DaveM
    2 days ago















0














It sounds like the joint compound was applied over a paste residue that is reactivating from the moisture in the paint.
It can be very near impossible to get all adhesive washed off of the surface.
That is why I always use a sealer before patching.
Best one I have used is Gardz by Zinnser. It creates a thin barrier coat that locks down containment’s on the surface. After it drys do your patching and sanding followed by spot priming of repairs with same product. –






share|improve this answer























  • I've seen that, but I'm pretty good about getting it clean. If I find a patch I missed, I immediately scrape off the wet paint and glue from the spot, and repaint.

    – DaveM
    2 days ago













0












0








0







It sounds like the joint compound was applied over a paste residue that is reactivating from the moisture in the paint.
It can be very near impossible to get all adhesive washed off of the surface.
That is why I always use a sealer before patching.
Best one I have used is Gardz by Zinnser. It creates a thin barrier coat that locks down containment’s on the surface. After it drys do your patching and sanding followed by spot priming of repairs with same product. –






share|improve this answer













It sounds like the joint compound was applied over a paste residue that is reactivating from the moisture in the paint.
It can be very near impossible to get all adhesive washed off of the surface.
That is why I always use a sealer before patching.
Best one I have used is Gardz by Zinnser. It creates a thin barrier coat that locks down containment’s on the surface. After it drys do your patching and sanding followed by spot priming of repairs with same product. –







share|improve this answer












share|improve this answer



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answered 2 days ago









KrisKris

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  • I've seen that, but I'm pretty good about getting it clean. If I find a patch I missed, I immediately scrape off the wet paint and glue from the spot, and repaint.

    – DaveM
    2 days ago

















  • I've seen that, but I'm pretty good about getting it clean. If I find a patch I missed, I immediately scrape off the wet paint and glue from the spot, and repaint.

    – DaveM
    2 days ago
















I've seen that, but I'm pretty good about getting it clean. If I find a patch I missed, I immediately scrape off the wet paint and glue from the spot, and repaint.

– DaveM
2 days ago





I've seen that, but I'm pretty good about getting it clean. If I find a patch I missed, I immediately scrape off the wet paint and glue from the spot, and repaint.

– DaveM
2 days ago

















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