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Will my circuit charge the battery and power Arduino?
easiest way to detect a switch change using an arduinoCan someone review my first Arduino schematic please?ATmega168 circuit not working without Arduino regulator?Supply voltage for MOSFET driver in high-voltage (110v) PWM regulatorUsing transistors to minimize the number of Arduino pins used for this stepper motor driverStoring the charge from a MOSFET Bridge RectifierMeasuring temperature with ±0.01°C accuracyCircuit for slow windturbine 3-PhaseHow to best use SPI (master/slave)?
.everyoneloves__top-leaderboard:empty,.everyoneloves__mid-leaderboard:empty,.everyoneloves__bot-mid-leaderboard:empty
margin-bottom:0;
$begingroup$
I am currently attending High School, so I don't expect too much here. I simply want to know all the recommendations for this circuit (Capacitor values, etc).
But I mainly want to know if this circuit will take 120V AC and charge a battery in parallel with the load which will be a future bare-bone Arduino circuit.
NOTE: Bridge Rectifier Will Be A NTE5326.
Circuit Image:
Data Sheets:
- Mcp73831
- LM2576
- NTE5326 Bride Rectifier
arduino ac integrated-circuit dc bridge-rectifier
edited May 29 at 12:05
Kromster
1571 silver badge9 bronze badges
asked May 28 at 20:34
Nathan JohnsonNathan Johnson
791 silver badge6 bronze badges
$endgroup$
|
show 7 more comments
$begingroup$
I am currently attending High School, so I don't expect too much here. I simply want to know all the recommendations for this circuit (Capacitor values, etc).
But I mainly want to know if this circuit will take 120V AC and charge a battery in parallel with the load which will be a future bare-bone Arduino circuit.
NOTE: Bridge Rectifier Will Be A NTE5326.
Circuit Image:
Data Sheets:
- Mcp73831
- LM2576
- NTE5326 Bride Rectifier
arduino ac integrated-circuit dc bridge-rectifier
edited May 29 at 12:05
Kromster
1571 silver badge9 bronze badges
asked May 28 at 20:34
Nathan JohnsonNathan Johnson
791 silver badge6 bronze badges
$endgroup$
31
$begingroup$
Don’t. Just don’t. Playing with mains is not to be attempted unless you have at least some idea of what you are doing. Your circuit shows you don’t.
$endgroup$
– Edgar Brown
May 28 at 20:36
6
$begingroup$
When I was in high school I already knew not to mess with AC mains voltage and to always use a transformer. That was before the Internet existed, I got my info from magazines. Now with the Internet there are plenty examples to be found where you can learn from.
$endgroup$
– Bimpelrekkie
May 28 at 21:02
6
$begingroup$
It is easier, cheaper, and far far safer to get yourself a wall-wart with the voltage and current capability that you need. There's a lot of USB chargers floating around the world these days -- if you don't need more than 1.5A, you should be able to find something. If you don't need more than 0.5A, then any old USB charger will do.
$endgroup$
– TimWescott
May 28 at 21:03
8
$begingroup$
It's @NathanJohnson's first time, did anybody else make perfect circuits on their first cut? Be nice, spare some downvotes, save them for the really bad questions
$endgroup$
– Voltage Spike
May 28 at 21:18
6
$begingroup$
100 mA of AC current can be enough to stop your heart. 120 volt mains can supply 20,000 mA before the breaker trips. Only qualified electricians should make mains connections. Live to tinker another day...
$endgroup$
– user223075
May 29 at 3:47
|
show 7 more comments
$begingroup$
I am currently attending High School, so I don't expect too much here. I simply want to know all the recommendations for this circuit (Capacitor values, etc).
But I mainly want to know if this circuit will take 120V AC and charge a battery in parallel with the load which will be a future bare-bone Arduino circuit.
NOTE: Bridge Rectifier Will Be A NTE5326.
Circuit Image:
Data Sheets:
- Mcp73831
- LM2576
- NTE5326 Bride Rectifier
arduino ac integrated-circuit dc bridge-rectifier
edited May 29 at 12:05
Kromster
1571 silver badge9 bronze badges
asked May 28 at 20:34
Nathan JohnsonNathan Johnson
791 silver badge6 bronze badges
$endgroup$
I am currently attending High School, so I don't expect too much here. I simply want to know all the recommendations for this circuit (Capacitor values, etc).
But I mainly want to know if this circuit will take 120V AC and charge a battery in parallel with the load which will be a future bare-bone Arduino circuit.
NOTE: Bridge Rectifier Will Be A NTE5326.
Circuit Image:
Data Sheets:
- Mcp73831
- LM2576
- NTE5326 Bride Rectifier
arduino ac integrated-circuit dc bridge-rectifier
arduino ac integrated-circuit dc bridge-rectifier
edited May 29 at 12:05
Kromster
1571 silver badge9 bronze badges
asked May 28 at 20:34
Nathan JohnsonNathan Johnson
791 silver badge6 bronze badges
edited May 29 at 12:05
Kromster
1571 silver badge9 bronze badges
asked May 28 at 20:34
Nathan JohnsonNathan Johnson
791 silver badge6 bronze badges
edited May 29 at 12:05
Kromster
1571 silver badge9 bronze badges
edited May 29 at 12:05
Kromster
1571 silver badge9 bronze badges
edited May 29 at 12:05
Kromster
1571 silver badge9 bronze badges
1571 silver badge9 bronze badges
asked May 28 at 20:34
Nathan JohnsonNathan Johnson
791 silver badge6 bronze badges
asked May 28 at 20:34
Nathan JohnsonNathan Johnson
791 silver badge6 bronze badges
asked May 28 at 20:34
Nathan JohnsonNathan Johnson
791 silver badge6 bronze badges
791 silver badge6 bronze badges
31
$begingroup$
Don’t. Just don’t. Playing with mains is not to be attempted unless you have at least some idea of what you are doing. Your circuit shows you don’t.
$endgroup$
– Edgar Brown
May 28 at 20:36
6
$begingroup$
When I was in high school I already knew not to mess with AC mains voltage and to always use a transformer. That was before the Internet existed, I got my info from magazines. Now with the Internet there are plenty examples to be found where you can learn from.
$endgroup$
– Bimpelrekkie
May 28 at 21:02
6
$begingroup$
It is easier, cheaper, and far far safer to get yourself a wall-wart with the voltage and current capability that you need. There's a lot of USB chargers floating around the world these days -- if you don't need more than 1.5A, you should be able to find something. If you don't need more than 0.5A, then any old USB charger will do.
$endgroup$
– TimWescott
May 28 at 21:03
8
$begingroup$
It's @NathanJohnson's first time, did anybody else make perfect circuits on their first cut? Be nice, spare some downvotes, save them for the really bad questions
$endgroup$
– Voltage Spike
May 28 at 21:18
6
$begingroup$
100 mA of AC current can be enough to stop your heart. 120 volt mains can supply 20,000 mA before the breaker trips. Only qualified electricians should make mains connections. Live to tinker another day...
$endgroup$
– user223075
May 29 at 3:47
|
show 7 more comments
31
$begingroup$
Don’t. Just don’t. Playing with mains is not to be attempted unless you have at least some idea of what you are doing. Your circuit shows you don’t.
$endgroup$
– Edgar Brown
May 28 at 20:36
6
$begingroup$
When I was in high school I already knew not to mess with AC mains voltage and to always use a transformer. That was before the Internet existed, I got my info from magazines. Now with the Internet there are plenty examples to be found where you can learn from.
$endgroup$
– Bimpelrekkie
May 28 at 21:02
6
$begingroup$
It is easier, cheaper, and far far safer to get yourself a wall-wart with the voltage and current capability that you need. There's a lot of USB chargers floating around the world these days -- if you don't need more than 1.5A, you should be able to find something. If you don't need more than 0.5A, then any old USB charger will do.
$endgroup$
– TimWescott
May 28 at 21:03
8
$begingroup$
It's @NathanJohnson's first time, did anybody else make perfect circuits on their first cut? Be nice, spare some downvotes, save them for the really bad questions
$endgroup$
– Voltage Spike
May 28 at 21:18
6
$begingroup$
100 mA of AC current can be enough to stop your heart. 120 volt mains can supply 20,000 mA before the breaker trips. Only qualified electricians should make mains connections. Live to tinker another day...
$endgroup$
– user223075
May 29 at 3:47
31
31
$begingroup$
Don’t. Just don’t. Playing with mains is not to be attempted unless you have at least some idea of what you are doing. Your circuit shows you don’t.
$endgroup$
– Edgar Brown
May 28 at 20:36
$begingroup$
Don’t. Just don’t. Playing with mains is not to be attempted unless you have at least some idea of what you are doing. Your circuit shows you don’t.
$endgroup$
– Edgar Brown
May 28 at 20:36
6
6
$begingroup$
When I was in high school I already knew not to mess with AC mains voltage and to always use a transformer. That was before the Internet existed, I got my info from magazines. Now with the Internet there are plenty examples to be found where you can learn from.
$endgroup$
– Bimpelrekkie
May 28 at 21:02
$begingroup$
When I was in high school I already knew not to mess with AC mains voltage and to always use a transformer. That was before the Internet existed, I got my info from magazines. Now with the Internet there are plenty examples to be found where you can learn from.
$endgroup$
– Bimpelrekkie
May 28 at 21:02
6
6
$begingroup$
It is easier, cheaper, and far far safer to get yourself a wall-wart with the voltage and current capability that you need. There's a lot of USB chargers floating around the world these days -- if you don't need more than 1.5A, you should be able to find something. If you don't need more than 0.5A, then any old USB charger will do.
$endgroup$
– TimWescott
May 28 at 21:03
$begingroup$
It is easier, cheaper, and far far safer to get yourself a wall-wart with the voltage and current capability that you need. There's a lot of USB chargers floating around the world these days -- if you don't need more than 1.5A, you should be able to find something. If you don't need more than 0.5A, then any old USB charger will do.
$endgroup$
– TimWescott
May 28 at 21:03
8
8
$begingroup$
It's @NathanJohnson's first time, did anybody else make perfect circuits on their first cut? Be nice, spare some downvotes, save them for the really bad questions
$endgroup$
– Voltage Spike
May 28 at 21:18
$begingroup$
It's @NathanJohnson's first time, did anybody else make perfect circuits on their first cut? Be nice, spare some downvotes, save them for the really bad questions
$endgroup$
– Voltage Spike
May 28 at 21:18
6
6
$begingroup$
100 mA of AC current can be enough to stop your heart. 120 volt mains can supply 20,000 mA before the breaker trips. Only qualified electricians should make mains connections. Live to tinker another day...
$endgroup$
– user223075
May 29 at 3:47
$begingroup$
100 mA of AC current can be enough to stop your heart. 120 volt mains can supply 20,000 mA before the breaker trips. Only qualified electricians should make mains connections. Live to tinker another day...
$endgroup$
– user223075
May 29 at 3:47
|
show 7 more comments
4 Answers
4
active
oldest
votes
$begingroup$
No, the maximum voltage of the LM2576 is 45V. There are also a few other problems with the schematic above:
- You need to have an isolation transformer on AC mains for safety purposes
- AC mains can have spikes over 400V, from lightning or other devices. You need protection from these spikes.
- AC mains should be fused, so in the event of a fault, it becomes disconnected.
EDIT
A circuit like this with a transformer would be better, instead of a 7805, put your DC to DC there. Use a step down transformer to get the voltage to the recommended voltage of the DC to DC converter.
Source: https://www.elprocus.com/steps-to-convert-the-230v-ac-to-5v-dc/
answered May 28 at 20:58
Voltage SpikeVoltage Spike
40.6k12 gold badges44 silver badges119 bronze badges
$endgroup$
1
$begingroup$
Could you point me in the right direction for a proper AC -> DC Converter for what I would need then?
$endgroup$
– Nathan Johnson
May 28 at 21:00
1
$begingroup$
@NathanJohnson Product recommendations are not allowed on our website. That's something you'll have to figure out.
$endgroup$
– KingDuken
May 28 at 21:07
4
$begingroup$
I would not suggest a 20VDC to 5V 7805. It will dump 3x as much heat into the regulator. and 30V would be 5x as much load into the regulator. THe DC-DC buck regulator will be more efficient but should be bought not made.
$endgroup$
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
May 28 at 22:21
1
$begingroup$
I wouldn't either, thats why I suggested using 20 or 30V for the LM2576. Hence the "instead of 7805" in the answer
$endgroup$
– Voltage Spike
May 28 at 22:22
3
$begingroup$
A DC-DC design requires advanced knowledge on LC characteristics and layout so not for newbies unless exact duplicate of an OEM design
$endgroup$
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
May 28 at 22:24
|
show 7 more comments
$begingroup$
Nice try but this is DC-DC converter only and 40 or 60V max options.
Keep mind AC line can have 120Vrms +/-10% or +/-170 Vpk sine
This means even if you had a huge 200V cap it has to be charged up in zero time at some random voltage. All caps have internal effective series resistance or ESR so using Ohm's Law with say 1 Ohm ESR you can expect a 170A firecracker with toxic fumes.
The equation to surge charge a capacitor with current is same for batteries. Ic = C ΔV/Δt, except even small 10Wh Li-Ion cells are ~ 10,000 Farads but 0 to 40V on 100uF can still be 40A if the ESR is 1 Ohm. These values are given in datasheets.
answered May 28 at 20:37
Sunnyskyguy EE75Sunnyskyguy EE75
81.5k2 gold badges31 silver badges118 bronze badges
$endgroup$
$begingroup$
I thought a Bridge Rectifier doesn't output 120 DC I thought it steps it down to under the 60 maximum allowed volts
$endgroup$
– Nathan Johnson
May 28 at 20:49
5
$begingroup$
Nope. 120VAC means 120V RMS (Google "RMS"). That works out to the roughly 170V peak-peak that this answer quotes, and that's what you'll get out of the bridge rectifier. Moreover, anything that you're going to touch should be isolated from the mains voltage. You could get both isolation and step-down with a transformer, but IMHO you need to get some safe, low-voltage power to learn on first, and hazard the high voltage stuff after you have a better understanding of electricity.
$endgroup$
– TimWescott
May 28 at 21:01
$begingroup$
That would require a suitable 60Hz step-down 12V transformer with VA rating 30% higher than Watts needed.. Much better to buy AC-DC converters online
$endgroup$
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
May 28 at 21:01
$begingroup$
Thanks for the feedback I will definitely have to research more before I try again
$endgroup$
– Nathan Johnson
May 28 at 21:03
$begingroup$
Safer bet is something like this amazon.com/PHEVOS-Universal-Switching-Raspberry-Computer/dp/… but no cordset or amazon.com/ALITOVE-Converter-5-5x2-1mm-100V-240V-Security/dp/…
$endgroup$
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
May 28 at 21:14
|
show 2 more comments
$begingroup$
One of the big benefits of AC mains power is that it can be transformed quite easily. Just about every device that connects to your wall socket has a transformer of some variety.
A transformer does a couple of neat things for you. Firstly, it lets you change the voltage to the level you want and secondly it isolates your circuit from the mains wiring.
Now you could get 5 V DC from your mains without using a transformer. You can even do weird things like rectify your AC to DC then invert the DC back into AC using PWM into a transformer to get your DC voltage. There are reasons to do these things.
In your case there is practically no reason for you to do any of this though. Commercially available DC power packs are cheap, safe and available in the voltage and current you require. Then instead of worrying about fuses, bridges, transformers and not killing yourself or setting something on fire you can just worry about powering your board and charging the battery :)
(Which by the way, depending your your battery chemistry is not a simple thing.)
edited May 29 at 19:28
Peter Mortensen
1,5743 gold badges14 silver badges22 bronze badges
answered May 29 at 12:27
heketehekete
1,1331 silver badge11 bronze badges
$endgroup$
$begingroup$
Just so you now I plan on using this specific battery : adafruit.com/product/328
$endgroup$
– Nathan Johnson
May 29 at 12:31
3
$begingroup$
That is a LiPo battery, which means it has some very specific charging requirements. Which if not followed can result in the battery exploding. Like I said, not a simple thing!
$endgroup$
– hekete
May 29 at 12:43
add a comment
|
$begingroup$
The only reason you'd add a larger than 100 uF cap before the 2576 (or any DC DC converter) is for a smaller source you're pulling current from (I.e. an Alkaloid battery pack). As you pull more current to load the voltage goes down which could turn off the 2576, so you want to be sure the voltage is stabilized, so you add a big capacitor (470+ uF, ideally 1000 uF). That's not the case with mains, you'll be getting more than ample voltage at all times unless power is out. Use the TI power picker to pick some IC more suitable (will also do the design for you!!) to your application
But also, you're exceeding the ratings of the 2576, and probably all the components in parallel with the mains that you had planned to use, there. Also at 120V60Hz, the peak is at 170V, so make sure all your components in parallel with mains there are rated for DC voltage about 25% above 170V just to conservative. Also, you'll want to use a transformer and fuse as laptop2d showed! :) Good luck, and let me know if you need any more help!
answered May 30 at 3:51
Tariq AusafTariq Ausaf
11 bronze badge
$endgroup$
add a comment
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4 Answers
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4 Answers
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$begingroup$
No, the maximum voltage of the LM2576 is 45V. There are also a few other problems with the schematic above:
- You need to have an isolation transformer on AC mains for safety purposes
- AC mains can have spikes over 400V, from lightning or other devices. You need protection from these spikes.
- AC mains should be fused, so in the event of a fault, it becomes disconnected.
EDIT
A circuit like this with a transformer would be better, instead of a 7805, put your DC to DC there. Use a step down transformer to get the voltage to the recommended voltage of the DC to DC converter.
Source: https://www.elprocus.com/steps-to-convert-the-230v-ac-to-5v-dc/
answered May 28 at 20:58
Voltage SpikeVoltage Spike
40.6k12 gold badges44 silver badges119 bronze badges
$endgroup$
1
$begingroup$
Could you point me in the right direction for a proper AC -> DC Converter for what I would need then?
$endgroup$
– Nathan Johnson
May 28 at 21:00
1
$begingroup$
@NathanJohnson Product recommendations are not allowed on our website. That's something you'll have to figure out.
$endgroup$
– KingDuken
May 28 at 21:07
4
$begingroup$
I would not suggest a 20VDC to 5V 7805. It will dump 3x as much heat into the regulator. and 30V would be 5x as much load into the regulator. THe DC-DC buck regulator will be more efficient but should be bought not made.
$endgroup$
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
May 28 at 22:21
1
$begingroup$
I wouldn't either, thats why I suggested using 20 or 30V for the LM2576. Hence the "instead of 7805" in the answer
$endgroup$
– Voltage Spike
May 28 at 22:22
3
$begingroup$
A DC-DC design requires advanced knowledge on LC characteristics and layout so not for newbies unless exact duplicate of an OEM design
$endgroup$
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
May 28 at 22:24
|
show 7 more comments
$begingroup$
No, the maximum voltage of the LM2576 is 45V. There are also a few other problems with the schematic above:
- You need to have an isolation transformer on AC mains for safety purposes
- AC mains can have spikes over 400V, from lightning or other devices. You need protection from these spikes.
- AC mains should be fused, so in the event of a fault, it becomes disconnected.
EDIT
A circuit like this with a transformer would be better, instead of a 7805, put your DC to DC there. Use a step down transformer to get the voltage to the recommended voltage of the DC to DC converter.
Source: https://www.elprocus.com/steps-to-convert-the-230v-ac-to-5v-dc/
answered May 28 at 20:58
Voltage SpikeVoltage Spike
40.6k12 gold badges44 silver badges119 bronze badges
$endgroup$
1
$begingroup$
Could you point me in the right direction for a proper AC -> DC Converter for what I would need then?
$endgroup$
– Nathan Johnson
May 28 at 21:00
1
$begingroup$
@NathanJohnson Product recommendations are not allowed on our website. That's something you'll have to figure out.
$endgroup$
– KingDuken
May 28 at 21:07
4
$begingroup$
I would not suggest a 20VDC to 5V 7805. It will dump 3x as much heat into the regulator. and 30V would be 5x as much load into the regulator. THe DC-DC buck regulator will be more efficient but should be bought not made.
$endgroup$
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
May 28 at 22:21
1
$begingroup$
I wouldn't either, thats why I suggested using 20 or 30V for the LM2576. Hence the "instead of 7805" in the answer
$endgroup$
– Voltage Spike
May 28 at 22:22
3
$begingroup$
A DC-DC design requires advanced knowledge on LC characteristics and layout so not for newbies unless exact duplicate of an OEM design
$endgroup$
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
May 28 at 22:24
|
show 7 more comments
$begingroup$
No, the maximum voltage of the LM2576 is 45V. There are also a few other problems with the schematic above:
- You need to have an isolation transformer on AC mains for safety purposes
- AC mains can have spikes over 400V, from lightning or other devices. You need protection from these spikes.
- AC mains should be fused, so in the event of a fault, it becomes disconnected.
EDIT
A circuit like this with a transformer would be better, instead of a 7805, put your DC to DC there. Use a step down transformer to get the voltage to the recommended voltage of the DC to DC converter.
Source: https://www.elprocus.com/steps-to-convert-the-230v-ac-to-5v-dc/
answered May 28 at 20:58
Voltage SpikeVoltage Spike
40.6k12 gold badges44 silver badges119 bronze badges
$endgroup$
No, the maximum voltage of the LM2576 is 45V. There are also a few other problems with the schematic above:
- You need to have an isolation transformer on AC mains for safety purposes
- AC mains can have spikes over 400V, from lightning or other devices. You need protection from these spikes.
- AC mains should be fused, so in the event of a fault, it becomes disconnected.
EDIT
A circuit like this with a transformer would be better, instead of a 7805, put your DC to DC there. Use a step down transformer to get the voltage to the recommended voltage of the DC to DC converter.
Source: https://www.elprocus.com/steps-to-convert-the-230v-ac-to-5v-dc/
answered May 28 at 20:58
Voltage SpikeVoltage Spike
40.6k12 gold badges44 silver badges119 bronze badges
edited May 28 at 21:24
answered May 28 at 20:58
Voltage SpikeVoltage Spike
40.6k12 gold badges44 silver badges119 bronze badges
answered May 28 at 20:58
Voltage SpikeVoltage Spike
40.6k12 gold badges44 silver badges119 bronze badges
answered May 28 at 20:58
Voltage SpikeVoltage Spike
40.6k12 gold badges44 silver badges119 bronze badges
40.6k12 gold badges44 silver badges119 bronze badges
1
$begingroup$
Could you point me in the right direction for a proper AC -> DC Converter for what I would need then?
$endgroup$
– Nathan Johnson
May 28 at 21:00
1
$begingroup$
@NathanJohnson Product recommendations are not allowed on our website. That's something you'll have to figure out.
$endgroup$
– KingDuken
May 28 at 21:07
4
$begingroup$
I would not suggest a 20VDC to 5V 7805. It will dump 3x as much heat into the regulator. and 30V would be 5x as much load into the regulator. THe DC-DC buck regulator will be more efficient but should be bought not made.
$endgroup$
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
May 28 at 22:21
1
$begingroup$
I wouldn't either, thats why I suggested using 20 or 30V for the LM2576. Hence the "instead of 7805" in the answer
$endgroup$
– Voltage Spike
May 28 at 22:22
3
$begingroup$
A DC-DC design requires advanced knowledge on LC characteristics and layout so not for newbies unless exact duplicate of an OEM design
$endgroup$
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
May 28 at 22:24
|
show 7 more comments
1
$begingroup$
Could you point me in the right direction for a proper AC -> DC Converter for what I would need then?
$endgroup$
– Nathan Johnson
May 28 at 21:00
1
$begingroup$
@NathanJohnson Product recommendations are not allowed on our website. That's something you'll have to figure out.
$endgroup$
– KingDuken
May 28 at 21:07
4
$begingroup$
I would not suggest a 20VDC to 5V 7805. It will dump 3x as much heat into the regulator. and 30V would be 5x as much load into the regulator. THe DC-DC buck regulator will be more efficient but should be bought not made.
$endgroup$
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
May 28 at 22:21
1
$begingroup$
I wouldn't either, thats why I suggested using 20 or 30V for the LM2576. Hence the "instead of 7805" in the answer
$endgroup$
– Voltage Spike
May 28 at 22:22
3
$begingroup$
A DC-DC design requires advanced knowledge on LC characteristics and layout so not for newbies unless exact duplicate of an OEM design
$endgroup$
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
May 28 at 22:24
1
1
$begingroup$
Could you point me in the right direction for a proper AC -> DC Converter for what I would need then?
$endgroup$
– Nathan Johnson
May 28 at 21:00
$begingroup$
Could you point me in the right direction for a proper AC -> DC Converter for what I would need then?
$endgroup$
– Nathan Johnson
May 28 at 21:00
1
1
$begingroup$
@NathanJohnson Product recommendations are not allowed on our website. That's something you'll have to figure out.
$endgroup$
– KingDuken
May 28 at 21:07
$begingroup$
@NathanJohnson Product recommendations are not allowed on our website. That's something you'll have to figure out.
$endgroup$
– KingDuken
May 28 at 21:07
4
4
$begingroup$
I would not suggest a 20VDC to 5V 7805. It will dump 3x as much heat into the regulator. and 30V would be 5x as much load into the regulator. THe DC-DC buck regulator will be more efficient but should be bought not made.
$endgroup$
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
May 28 at 22:21
$begingroup$
I would not suggest a 20VDC to 5V 7805. It will dump 3x as much heat into the regulator. and 30V would be 5x as much load into the regulator. THe DC-DC buck regulator will be more efficient but should be bought not made.
$endgroup$
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
May 28 at 22:21
1
1
$begingroup$
I wouldn't either, thats why I suggested using 20 or 30V for the LM2576. Hence the "instead of 7805" in the answer
$endgroup$
– Voltage Spike
May 28 at 22:22
$begingroup$
I wouldn't either, thats why I suggested using 20 or 30V for the LM2576. Hence the "instead of 7805" in the answer
$endgroup$
– Voltage Spike
May 28 at 22:22
3
3
$begingroup$
A DC-DC design requires advanced knowledge on LC characteristics and layout so not for newbies unless exact duplicate of an OEM design
$endgroup$
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
May 28 at 22:24
$begingroup$
A DC-DC design requires advanced knowledge on LC characteristics and layout so not for newbies unless exact duplicate of an OEM design
$endgroup$
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
May 28 at 22:24
|
show 7 more comments
$begingroup$
Nice try but this is DC-DC converter only and 40 or 60V max options.
Keep mind AC line can have 120Vrms +/-10% or +/-170 Vpk sine
This means even if you had a huge 200V cap it has to be charged up in zero time at some random voltage. All caps have internal effective series resistance or ESR so using Ohm's Law with say 1 Ohm ESR you can expect a 170A firecracker with toxic fumes.
The equation to surge charge a capacitor with current is same for batteries. Ic = C ΔV/Δt, except even small 10Wh Li-Ion cells are ~ 10,000 Farads but 0 to 40V on 100uF can still be 40A if the ESR is 1 Ohm. These values are given in datasheets.
answered May 28 at 20:37
Sunnyskyguy EE75Sunnyskyguy EE75
81.5k2 gold badges31 silver badges118 bronze badges
$endgroup$
$begingroup$
I thought a Bridge Rectifier doesn't output 120 DC I thought it steps it down to under the 60 maximum allowed volts
$endgroup$
– Nathan Johnson
May 28 at 20:49
5
$begingroup$
Nope. 120VAC means 120V RMS (Google "RMS"). That works out to the roughly 170V peak-peak that this answer quotes, and that's what you'll get out of the bridge rectifier. Moreover, anything that you're going to touch should be isolated from the mains voltage. You could get both isolation and step-down with a transformer, but IMHO you need to get some safe, low-voltage power to learn on first, and hazard the high voltage stuff after you have a better understanding of electricity.
$endgroup$
– TimWescott
May 28 at 21:01
$begingroup$
That would require a suitable 60Hz step-down 12V transformer with VA rating 30% higher than Watts needed.. Much better to buy AC-DC converters online
$endgroup$
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
May 28 at 21:01
$begingroup$
Thanks for the feedback I will definitely have to research more before I try again
$endgroup$
– Nathan Johnson
May 28 at 21:03
$begingroup$
Safer bet is something like this amazon.com/PHEVOS-Universal-Switching-Raspberry-Computer/dp/… but no cordset or amazon.com/ALITOVE-Converter-5-5x2-1mm-100V-240V-Security/dp/…
$endgroup$
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
May 28 at 21:14
|
show 2 more comments
$begingroup$
Nice try but this is DC-DC converter only and 40 or 60V max options.
Keep mind AC line can have 120Vrms +/-10% or +/-170 Vpk sine
This means even if you had a huge 200V cap it has to be charged up in zero time at some random voltage. All caps have internal effective series resistance or ESR so using Ohm's Law with say 1 Ohm ESR you can expect a 170A firecracker with toxic fumes.
The equation to surge charge a capacitor with current is same for batteries. Ic = C ΔV/Δt, except even small 10Wh Li-Ion cells are ~ 10,000 Farads but 0 to 40V on 100uF can still be 40A if the ESR is 1 Ohm. These values are given in datasheets.
answered May 28 at 20:37
Sunnyskyguy EE75Sunnyskyguy EE75
81.5k2 gold badges31 silver badges118 bronze badges
$endgroup$
$begingroup$
I thought a Bridge Rectifier doesn't output 120 DC I thought it steps it down to under the 60 maximum allowed volts
$endgroup$
– Nathan Johnson
May 28 at 20:49
5
$begingroup$
Nope. 120VAC means 120V RMS (Google "RMS"). That works out to the roughly 170V peak-peak that this answer quotes, and that's what you'll get out of the bridge rectifier. Moreover, anything that you're going to touch should be isolated from the mains voltage. You could get both isolation and step-down with a transformer, but IMHO you need to get some safe, low-voltage power to learn on first, and hazard the high voltage stuff after you have a better understanding of electricity.
$endgroup$
– TimWescott
May 28 at 21:01
$begingroup$
That would require a suitable 60Hz step-down 12V transformer with VA rating 30% higher than Watts needed.. Much better to buy AC-DC converters online
$endgroup$
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
May 28 at 21:01
$begingroup$
Thanks for the feedback I will definitely have to research more before I try again
$endgroup$
– Nathan Johnson
May 28 at 21:03
$begingroup$
Safer bet is something like this amazon.com/PHEVOS-Universal-Switching-Raspberry-Computer/dp/… but no cordset or amazon.com/ALITOVE-Converter-5-5x2-1mm-100V-240V-Security/dp/…
$endgroup$
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
May 28 at 21:14
|
show 2 more comments
$begingroup$
Nice try but this is DC-DC converter only and 40 or 60V max options.
Keep mind AC line can have 120Vrms +/-10% or +/-170 Vpk sine
This means even if you had a huge 200V cap it has to be charged up in zero time at some random voltage. All caps have internal effective series resistance or ESR so using Ohm's Law with say 1 Ohm ESR you can expect a 170A firecracker with toxic fumes.
The equation to surge charge a capacitor with current is same for batteries. Ic = C ΔV/Δt, except even small 10Wh Li-Ion cells are ~ 10,000 Farads but 0 to 40V on 100uF can still be 40A if the ESR is 1 Ohm. These values are given in datasheets.
answered May 28 at 20:37
Sunnyskyguy EE75Sunnyskyguy EE75
81.5k2 gold badges31 silver badges118 bronze badges
$endgroup$
Nice try but this is DC-DC converter only and 40 or 60V max options.
Keep mind AC line can have 120Vrms +/-10% or +/-170 Vpk sine
This means even if you had a huge 200V cap it has to be charged up in zero time at some random voltage. All caps have internal effective series resistance or ESR so using Ohm's Law with say 1 Ohm ESR you can expect a 170A firecracker with toxic fumes.
The equation to surge charge a capacitor with current is same for batteries. Ic = C ΔV/Δt, except even small 10Wh Li-Ion cells are ~ 10,000 Farads but 0 to 40V on 100uF can still be 40A if the ESR is 1 Ohm. These values are given in datasheets.
answered May 28 at 20:37
Sunnyskyguy EE75Sunnyskyguy EE75
81.5k2 gold badges31 silver badges118 bronze badges
edited May 28 at 20:44
answered May 28 at 20:37
Sunnyskyguy EE75Sunnyskyguy EE75
81.5k2 gold badges31 silver badges118 bronze badges
answered May 28 at 20:37
Sunnyskyguy EE75Sunnyskyguy EE75
81.5k2 gold badges31 silver badges118 bronze badges
answered May 28 at 20:37
Sunnyskyguy EE75Sunnyskyguy EE75
81.5k2 gold badges31 silver badges118 bronze badges
81.5k2 gold badges31 silver badges118 bronze badges
$begingroup$
I thought a Bridge Rectifier doesn't output 120 DC I thought it steps it down to under the 60 maximum allowed volts
$endgroup$
– Nathan Johnson
May 28 at 20:49
5
$begingroup$
Nope. 120VAC means 120V RMS (Google "RMS"). That works out to the roughly 170V peak-peak that this answer quotes, and that's what you'll get out of the bridge rectifier. Moreover, anything that you're going to touch should be isolated from the mains voltage. You could get both isolation and step-down with a transformer, but IMHO you need to get some safe, low-voltage power to learn on first, and hazard the high voltage stuff after you have a better understanding of electricity.
$endgroup$
– TimWescott
May 28 at 21:01
$begingroup$
That would require a suitable 60Hz step-down 12V transformer with VA rating 30% higher than Watts needed.. Much better to buy AC-DC converters online
$endgroup$
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
May 28 at 21:01
$begingroup$
Thanks for the feedback I will definitely have to research more before I try again
$endgroup$
– Nathan Johnson
May 28 at 21:03
$begingroup$
Safer bet is something like this amazon.com/PHEVOS-Universal-Switching-Raspberry-Computer/dp/… but no cordset or amazon.com/ALITOVE-Converter-5-5x2-1mm-100V-240V-Security/dp/…
$endgroup$
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
May 28 at 21:14
|
show 2 more comments
$begingroup$
I thought a Bridge Rectifier doesn't output 120 DC I thought it steps it down to under the 60 maximum allowed volts
$endgroup$
– Nathan Johnson
May 28 at 20:49
5
$begingroup$
Nope. 120VAC means 120V RMS (Google "RMS"). That works out to the roughly 170V peak-peak that this answer quotes, and that's what you'll get out of the bridge rectifier. Moreover, anything that you're going to touch should be isolated from the mains voltage. You could get both isolation and step-down with a transformer, but IMHO you need to get some safe, low-voltage power to learn on first, and hazard the high voltage stuff after you have a better understanding of electricity.
$endgroup$
– TimWescott
May 28 at 21:01
$begingroup$
That would require a suitable 60Hz step-down 12V transformer with VA rating 30% higher than Watts needed.. Much better to buy AC-DC converters online
$endgroup$
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
May 28 at 21:01
$begingroup$
Thanks for the feedback I will definitely have to research more before I try again
$endgroup$
– Nathan Johnson
May 28 at 21:03
$begingroup$
Safer bet is something like this amazon.com/PHEVOS-Universal-Switching-Raspberry-Computer/dp/… but no cordset or amazon.com/ALITOVE-Converter-5-5x2-1mm-100V-240V-Security/dp/…
$endgroup$
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
May 28 at 21:14
$begingroup$
I thought a Bridge Rectifier doesn't output 120 DC I thought it steps it down to under the 60 maximum allowed volts
$endgroup$
– Nathan Johnson
May 28 at 20:49
$begingroup$
I thought a Bridge Rectifier doesn't output 120 DC I thought it steps it down to under the 60 maximum allowed volts
$endgroup$
– Nathan Johnson
May 28 at 20:49
5
5
$begingroup$
Nope. 120VAC means 120V RMS (Google "RMS"). That works out to the roughly 170V peak-peak that this answer quotes, and that's what you'll get out of the bridge rectifier. Moreover, anything that you're going to touch should be isolated from the mains voltage. You could get both isolation and step-down with a transformer, but IMHO you need to get some safe, low-voltage power to learn on first, and hazard the high voltage stuff after you have a better understanding of electricity.
$endgroup$
– TimWescott
May 28 at 21:01
$begingroup$
Nope. 120VAC means 120V RMS (Google "RMS"). That works out to the roughly 170V peak-peak that this answer quotes, and that's what you'll get out of the bridge rectifier. Moreover, anything that you're going to touch should be isolated from the mains voltage. You could get both isolation and step-down with a transformer, but IMHO you need to get some safe, low-voltage power to learn on first, and hazard the high voltage stuff after you have a better understanding of electricity.
$endgroup$
– TimWescott
May 28 at 21:01
$begingroup$
That would require a suitable 60Hz step-down 12V transformer with VA rating 30% higher than Watts needed.. Much better to buy AC-DC converters online
$endgroup$
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
May 28 at 21:01
$begingroup$
That would require a suitable 60Hz step-down 12V transformer with VA rating 30% higher than Watts needed.. Much better to buy AC-DC converters online
$endgroup$
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
May 28 at 21:01
$begingroup$
Thanks for the feedback I will definitely have to research more before I try again
$endgroup$
– Nathan Johnson
May 28 at 21:03
$begingroup$
Thanks for the feedback I will definitely have to research more before I try again
$endgroup$
– Nathan Johnson
May 28 at 21:03
$begingroup$
Safer bet is something like this amazon.com/PHEVOS-Universal-Switching-Raspberry-Computer/dp/… but no cordset or amazon.com/ALITOVE-Converter-5-5x2-1mm-100V-240V-Security/dp/…
$endgroup$
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
May 28 at 21:14
$begingroup$
Safer bet is something like this amazon.com/PHEVOS-Universal-Switching-Raspberry-Computer/dp/… but no cordset or amazon.com/ALITOVE-Converter-5-5x2-1mm-100V-240V-Security/dp/…
$endgroup$
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
May 28 at 21:14
|
show 2 more comments
$begingroup$
One of the big benefits of AC mains power is that it can be transformed quite easily. Just about every device that connects to your wall socket has a transformer of some variety.
A transformer does a couple of neat things for you. Firstly, it lets you change the voltage to the level you want and secondly it isolates your circuit from the mains wiring.
Now you could get 5 V DC from your mains without using a transformer. You can even do weird things like rectify your AC to DC then invert the DC back into AC using PWM into a transformer to get your DC voltage. There are reasons to do these things.
In your case there is practically no reason for you to do any of this though. Commercially available DC power packs are cheap, safe and available in the voltage and current you require. Then instead of worrying about fuses, bridges, transformers and not killing yourself or setting something on fire you can just worry about powering your board and charging the battery :)
(Which by the way, depending your your battery chemistry is not a simple thing.)
edited May 29 at 19:28
Peter Mortensen
1,5743 gold badges14 silver badges22 bronze badges
answered May 29 at 12:27
heketehekete
1,1331 silver badge11 bronze badges
$endgroup$
$begingroup$
Just so you now I plan on using this specific battery : adafruit.com/product/328
$endgroup$
– Nathan Johnson
May 29 at 12:31
3
$begingroup$
That is a LiPo battery, which means it has some very specific charging requirements. Which if not followed can result in the battery exploding. Like I said, not a simple thing!
$endgroup$
– hekete
May 29 at 12:43
add a comment
|
$begingroup$
One of the big benefits of AC mains power is that it can be transformed quite easily. Just about every device that connects to your wall socket has a transformer of some variety.
A transformer does a couple of neat things for you. Firstly, it lets you change the voltage to the level you want and secondly it isolates your circuit from the mains wiring.
Now you could get 5 V DC from your mains without using a transformer. You can even do weird things like rectify your AC to DC then invert the DC back into AC using PWM into a transformer to get your DC voltage. There are reasons to do these things.
In your case there is practically no reason for you to do any of this though. Commercially available DC power packs are cheap, safe and available in the voltage and current you require. Then instead of worrying about fuses, bridges, transformers and not killing yourself or setting something on fire you can just worry about powering your board and charging the battery :)
(Which by the way, depending your your battery chemistry is not a simple thing.)
edited May 29 at 19:28
Peter Mortensen
1,5743 gold badges14 silver badges22 bronze badges
answered May 29 at 12:27
heketehekete
1,1331 silver badge11 bronze badges
$endgroup$
$begingroup$
Just so you now I plan on using this specific battery : adafruit.com/product/328
$endgroup$
– Nathan Johnson
May 29 at 12:31
3
$begingroup$
That is a LiPo battery, which means it has some very specific charging requirements. Which if not followed can result in the battery exploding. Like I said, not a simple thing!
$endgroup$
– hekete
May 29 at 12:43
add a comment
|
$begingroup$
One of the big benefits of AC mains power is that it can be transformed quite easily. Just about every device that connects to your wall socket has a transformer of some variety.
A transformer does a couple of neat things for you. Firstly, it lets you change the voltage to the level you want and secondly it isolates your circuit from the mains wiring.
Now you could get 5 V DC from your mains without using a transformer. You can even do weird things like rectify your AC to DC then invert the DC back into AC using PWM into a transformer to get your DC voltage. There are reasons to do these things.
In your case there is practically no reason for you to do any of this though. Commercially available DC power packs are cheap, safe and available in the voltage and current you require. Then instead of worrying about fuses, bridges, transformers and not killing yourself or setting something on fire you can just worry about powering your board and charging the battery :)
(Which by the way, depending your your battery chemistry is not a simple thing.)
edited May 29 at 19:28
Peter Mortensen
1,5743 gold badges14 silver badges22 bronze badges
answered May 29 at 12:27
heketehekete
1,1331 silver badge11 bronze badges
$endgroup$
One of the big benefits of AC mains power is that it can be transformed quite easily. Just about every device that connects to your wall socket has a transformer of some variety.
A transformer does a couple of neat things for you. Firstly, it lets you change the voltage to the level you want and secondly it isolates your circuit from the mains wiring.
Now you could get 5 V DC from your mains without using a transformer. You can even do weird things like rectify your AC to DC then invert the DC back into AC using PWM into a transformer to get your DC voltage. There are reasons to do these things.
In your case there is practically no reason for you to do any of this though. Commercially available DC power packs are cheap, safe and available in the voltage and current you require. Then instead of worrying about fuses, bridges, transformers and not killing yourself or setting something on fire you can just worry about powering your board and charging the battery :)
(Which by the way, depending your your battery chemistry is not a simple thing.)
edited May 29 at 19:28
Peter Mortensen
1,5743 gold badges14 silver badges22 bronze badges
answered May 29 at 12:27
heketehekete
1,1331 silver badge11 bronze badges
edited May 29 at 19:28
Peter Mortensen
1,5743 gold badges14 silver badges22 bronze badges
edited May 29 at 19:28
Peter Mortensen
1,5743 gold badges14 silver badges22 bronze badges
edited May 29 at 19:28
Peter Mortensen
1,5743 gold badges14 silver badges22 bronze badges
1,5743 gold badges14 silver badges22 bronze badges
answered May 29 at 12:27
heketehekete
1,1331 silver badge11 bronze badges
answered May 29 at 12:27
heketehekete
1,1331 silver badge11 bronze badges
answered May 29 at 12:27
heketehekete
1,1331 silver badge11 bronze badges
1,1331 silver badge11 bronze badges
$begingroup$
Just so you now I plan on using this specific battery : adafruit.com/product/328
$endgroup$
– Nathan Johnson
May 29 at 12:31
3
$begingroup$
That is a LiPo battery, which means it has some very specific charging requirements. Which if not followed can result in the battery exploding. Like I said, not a simple thing!
$endgroup$
– hekete
May 29 at 12:43
add a comment
|
$begingroup$
Just so you now I plan on using this specific battery : adafruit.com/product/328
$endgroup$
– Nathan Johnson
May 29 at 12:31
3
$begingroup$
That is a LiPo battery, which means it has some very specific charging requirements. Which if not followed can result in the battery exploding. Like I said, not a simple thing!
$endgroup$
– hekete
May 29 at 12:43
$begingroup$
Just so you now I plan on using this specific battery : adafruit.com/product/328
$endgroup$
– Nathan Johnson
May 29 at 12:31
$begingroup$
Just so you now I plan on using this specific battery : adafruit.com/product/328
$endgroup$
– Nathan Johnson
May 29 at 12:31
3
3
$begingroup$
That is a LiPo battery, which means it has some very specific charging requirements. Which if not followed can result in the battery exploding. Like I said, not a simple thing!
$endgroup$
– hekete
May 29 at 12:43
$begingroup$
That is a LiPo battery, which means it has some very specific charging requirements. Which if not followed can result in the battery exploding. Like I said, not a simple thing!
$endgroup$
– hekete
May 29 at 12:43
add a comment
|
$begingroup$
The only reason you'd add a larger than 100 uF cap before the 2576 (or any DC DC converter) is for a smaller source you're pulling current from (I.e. an Alkaloid battery pack). As you pull more current to load the voltage goes down which could turn off the 2576, so you want to be sure the voltage is stabilized, so you add a big capacitor (470+ uF, ideally 1000 uF). That's not the case with mains, you'll be getting more than ample voltage at all times unless power is out. Use the TI power picker to pick some IC more suitable (will also do the design for you!!) to your application
But also, you're exceeding the ratings of the 2576, and probably all the components in parallel with the mains that you had planned to use, there. Also at 120V60Hz, the peak is at 170V, so make sure all your components in parallel with mains there are rated for DC voltage about 25% above 170V just to conservative. Also, you'll want to use a transformer and fuse as laptop2d showed! :) Good luck, and let me know if you need any more help!
answered May 30 at 3:51
Tariq AusafTariq Ausaf
11 bronze badge
$endgroup$
add a comment
|
$begingroup$
The only reason you'd add a larger than 100 uF cap before the 2576 (or any DC DC converter) is for a smaller source you're pulling current from (I.e. an Alkaloid battery pack). As you pull more current to load the voltage goes down which could turn off the 2576, so you want to be sure the voltage is stabilized, so you add a big capacitor (470+ uF, ideally 1000 uF). That's not the case with mains, you'll be getting more than ample voltage at all times unless power is out. Use the TI power picker to pick some IC more suitable (will also do the design for you!!) to your application
But also, you're exceeding the ratings of the 2576, and probably all the components in parallel with the mains that you had planned to use, there. Also at 120V60Hz, the peak is at 170V, so make sure all your components in parallel with mains there are rated for DC voltage about 25% above 170V just to conservative. Also, you'll want to use a transformer and fuse as laptop2d showed! :) Good luck, and let me know if you need any more help!
answered May 30 at 3:51
Tariq AusafTariq Ausaf
11 bronze badge
$endgroup$
add a comment
|
$begingroup$
The only reason you'd add a larger than 100 uF cap before the 2576 (or any DC DC converter) is for a smaller source you're pulling current from (I.e. an Alkaloid battery pack). As you pull more current to load the voltage goes down which could turn off the 2576, so you want to be sure the voltage is stabilized, so you add a big capacitor (470+ uF, ideally 1000 uF). That's not the case with mains, you'll be getting more than ample voltage at all times unless power is out. Use the TI power picker to pick some IC more suitable (will also do the design for you!!) to your application
But also, you're exceeding the ratings of the 2576, and probably all the components in parallel with the mains that you had planned to use, there. Also at 120V60Hz, the peak is at 170V, so make sure all your components in parallel with mains there are rated for DC voltage about 25% above 170V just to conservative. Also, you'll want to use a transformer and fuse as laptop2d showed! :) Good luck, and let me know if you need any more help!
answered May 30 at 3:51
Tariq AusafTariq Ausaf
11 bronze badge
$endgroup$
The only reason you'd add a larger than 100 uF cap before the 2576 (or any DC DC converter) is for a smaller source you're pulling current from (I.e. an Alkaloid battery pack). As you pull more current to load the voltage goes down which could turn off the 2576, so you want to be sure the voltage is stabilized, so you add a big capacitor (470+ uF, ideally 1000 uF). That's not the case with mains, you'll be getting more than ample voltage at all times unless power is out. Use the TI power picker to pick some IC more suitable (will also do the design for you!!) to your application
But also, you're exceeding the ratings of the 2576, and probably all the components in parallel with the mains that you had planned to use, there. Also at 120V60Hz, the peak is at 170V, so make sure all your components in parallel with mains there are rated for DC voltage about 25% above 170V just to conservative. Also, you'll want to use a transformer and fuse as laptop2d showed! :) Good luck, and let me know if you need any more help!
answered May 30 at 3:51
Tariq AusafTariq Ausaf
11 bronze badge
edited May 30 at 3:59
answered May 30 at 3:51
Tariq AusafTariq Ausaf
11 bronze badge
answered May 30 at 3:51
Tariq AusafTariq Ausaf
11 bronze badge
answered May 30 at 3:51
Tariq AusafTariq Ausaf
11 bronze badge
11 bronze badge
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31
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Don’t. Just don’t. Playing with mains is not to be attempted unless you have at least some idea of what you are doing. Your circuit shows you don’t.
$endgroup$
– Edgar Brown
May 28 at 20:36
6
$begingroup$
When I was in high school I already knew not to mess with AC mains voltage and to always use a transformer. That was before the Internet existed, I got my info from magazines. Now with the Internet there are plenty examples to be found where you can learn from.
$endgroup$
– Bimpelrekkie
May 28 at 21:02
6
$begingroup$
It is easier, cheaper, and far far safer to get yourself a wall-wart with the voltage and current capability that you need. There's a lot of USB chargers floating around the world these days -- if you don't need more than 1.5A, you should be able to find something. If you don't need more than 0.5A, then any old USB charger will do.
$endgroup$
– TimWescott
May 28 at 21:03
8
$begingroup$
It's @NathanJohnson's first time, did anybody else make perfect circuits on their first cut? Be nice, spare some downvotes, save them for the really bad questions
$endgroup$
– Voltage Spike
May 28 at 21:18
6
$begingroup$
100 mA of AC current can be enough to stop your heart. 120 volt mains can supply 20,000 mA before the breaker trips. Only qualified electricians should make mains connections. Live to tinker another day...
$endgroup$
– user223075
May 29 at 3:47