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Is my sink P-trap too low?
When does an under the sink P-Trap assembly need venting?How do I repair this friction ABS kitchen sink pipe fittingWhat should I consider when converting a double-basin sink to a single-basin?Tailpiece too long for new chrome J-Bend in kitchen sink drain repairExtending sink drain rough in. Legal? Correct?How can I lower a dirty arm trap drain(outlet) to accommodate a lower sink?New Kitchen Sink not draining properlyCan a sink drain be on the low side of a p-trapIs this flexible drain trap configuration acceptable?
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Just put a new sink in and was not lucky enough to have the plumbing line up. I have it roughed in and wanted some insight/opinions on whether this will work, or what I need to do to fix it. I have a slope leading from the disposal to the trap, but with the new larger sink, my p-trap is about 2" lower than it previously was. I used a J-bend to meet the drain tail piece to the drain tube. It seems like I am fighting gravity a bit too much now as the distance between the p-trap and the drain tube is quite large. Will this setup work or do I need to approach it a different way? 
plumbing sink p-trap
edited Sep 14 at 23:06
Machavity
11.5k5 gold badges27 silver badges51 bronze badges
asked Sep 14 at 14:16
Christopher BChristopher B
931 silver badge5 bronze badges
add a comment
|
Just put a new sink in and was not lucky enough to have the plumbing line up. I have it roughed in and wanted some insight/opinions on whether this will work, or what I need to do to fix it. I have a slope leading from the disposal to the trap, but with the new larger sink, my p-trap is about 2" lower than it previously was. I used a J-bend to meet the drain tail piece to the drain tube. It seems like I am fighting gravity a bit too much now as the distance between the p-trap and the drain tube is quite large. Will this setup work or do I need to approach it a different way?
plumbing sink p-trap
edited Sep 14 at 23:06
Machavity
11.5k5 gold badges27 silver badges51 bronze badges
asked Sep 14 at 14:16
Christopher BChristopher B
931 silver badge5 bronze badges
add a comment
|
Just put a new sink in and was not lucky enough to have the plumbing line up. I have it roughed in and wanted some insight/opinions on whether this will work, or what I need to do to fix it. I have a slope leading from the disposal to the trap, but with the new larger sink, my p-trap is about 2" lower than it previously was. I used a J-bend to meet the drain tail piece to the drain tube. It seems like I am fighting gravity a bit too much now as the distance between the p-trap and the drain tube is quite large. Will this setup work or do I need to approach it a different way?
plumbing sink p-trap
edited Sep 14 at 23:06
Machavity
11.5k5 gold badges27 silver badges51 bronze badges
asked Sep 14 at 14:16
Christopher BChristopher B
931 silver badge5 bronze badges
Just put a new sink in and was not lucky enough to have the plumbing line up. I have it roughed in and wanted some insight/opinions on whether this will work, or what I need to do to fix it. I have a slope leading from the disposal to the trap, but with the new larger sink, my p-trap is about 2" lower than it previously was. I used a J-bend to meet the drain tail piece to the drain tube. It seems like I am fighting gravity a bit too much now as the distance between the p-trap and the drain tube is quite large. Will this setup work or do I need to approach it a different way?
plumbing sink p-trap
plumbing sink p-trap
edited Sep 14 at 23:06
Machavity
11.5k5 gold badges27 silver badges51 bronze badges
asked Sep 14 at 14:16
Christopher BChristopher B
931 silver badge5 bronze badges
edited Sep 14 at 23:06
Machavity
11.5k5 gold badges27 silver badges51 bronze badges
asked Sep 14 at 14:16
Christopher BChristopher B
931 silver badge5 bronze badges
edited Sep 14 at 23:06
Machavity
11.5k5 gold badges27 silver badges51 bronze badges
edited Sep 14 at 23:06
Machavity
11.5k5 gold badges27 silver badges51 bronze badges
edited Sep 14 at 23:06
Machavity
11.5k5 gold badges27 silver badges51 bronze badges
11.5k5 gold badges27 silver badges51 bronze badges
asked Sep 14 at 14:16
Christopher BChristopher B
931 silver badge5 bronze badges
asked Sep 14 at 14:16
Christopher BChristopher B
931 silver badge5 bronze badges
asked Sep 14 at 14:16
Christopher BChristopher B
931 silver badge5 bronze badges
931 silver badge5 bronze badges
add a comment
|
add a comment
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6 Answers
6
active
oldest
votes
Bring your Ptrap up or your Sanitary Tee down.
AS noted by others you can cut the tail of the piece where it goes into the top of the Ptrap shorter ( thereby bringing the Ptrap up ), This will allow you to have the down hill slope you need for the disposal. You may need a longer tail piece from the bell on the basin into the tee from the disposal.
OR
I think this is the better option because your sanitary tee is a little too high.
You could cut your drain pipe shorter so the sanitary tee is lower.
Use a regular Ptrap ( non flexible, there is no need for the debris catching flex connection here ).
You also need to mount your air admittance valve properly. It is not high enough, put it as high up as you can in the space between the bowl and the back of the cabinet.
If you put it on a threaded connection just above the san tee you will be able to pull it out to change it if necessary.
edited Sep 20 at 1:54
chicks
1612 silver badges12 bronze badges
answered Sep 14 at 18:02
Alaska ManAlaska Man
5,1685 silver badges14 bronze badges
Thank you! I cut the drain pipe to lower the sanitary tee and it worked perfectly. Appreciate the help.
– Christopher B
Sep 14 at 22:48
1
if it worked then please select the answer as correct. thanks.
– Alaska Man
Sep 15 at 18:10
That was the right solution for a different reason as well -- now you won't have standing water backing into the garbage disposal, which would severely affect its longevity.
– Dave Tweed
Sep 16 at 15:25
add a comment
|
In the OP's installation the last horizontal run going into the vertical drain appears to be slightly higher than the horizontal run coming from the disposer. I think this will cause the horizontal disposer run to retain liquid. It appears that some of any liquid waste going into the left sink drain would flow back into the disposer. It seems to me that the T in the final drain must be lower by 2 or 3 inches.
See how it is done here (https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?attachments/kitchen-sinks-jpg.15470/):
In the OP's installation the tailpiece from the sink appears to be out of alignment (at a slight angle) with the next piece below it. But this may be an illusion since it also appears to be the case in the installation shown above.
answered Sep 14 at 16:41
Jim StewartJim Stewart
13.5k1 gold badge15 silver badges34 bronze badges
Thanks, that is exactly what i did!
– Christopher B
Sep 14 at 18:00
add a comment
|
You DO realize you can (perhaps even "are supposed to") cut excess length from the slip-fit trap parts? They are supplied long, but don't need to STAY that way. You can cut most of the tube leading to the trap off, thus raising the trap.
Opioninated commentary: I'd also lose the "flex section" on the other side of the trap - it is the part of this setup that will break first, by a long shot, in most cases. Also helps to promote clogs before then. You should be able to line rigid parts up by rotating them. In this case looks like you might also need to trim the "J tube" slip-fit end to make them line up right.
answered Sep 14 at 14:38
EcnerwalEcnerwal
63.6k4 gold badges54 silver badges110 bronze badges
The slip-fit trap is cut. I used the old setup as a template and cut it down even more, there will still be about a 2 inch gap between the p-trap and the drain pipe. I think I just need to pull it out and start over with the advice I've gotten here so far.
– Christopher B
Sep 14 at 15:01
add a comment
|
The flange piece connected to the sink looks like it isn't mounted flush and could cause leaks. Readjusting the garbage disposal might fix that. It also looks like you have enough room to get rid of that adjustable trap and install a regular one. The "jog" in that trap and the excessive length will probably cause water to rise into that sink when you run the disposal.... Good luck.
answered Sep 14 at 14:47
JACKJACK
7,8431 gold badge6 silver badges20 bronze badges
Thanks, I will adjust that flange and see where I am falling short on the trap/drain connection.
– Christopher B
Sep 14 at 15:00
add a comment
|
Maximum water trap height is 4", that's the distance between bottom of P trap and height of P trap outflow.
answered Sep 15 at 14:28
Jack WingoJack Wingo
211 bronze badge
add a comment
|
Cut your T off and move it down is the way to fix this. Leave the T upstream of your trap connected, cut the T off the pipe coming through the floor approximately an 1"- 1.5" below the T. Eliminate the flex piece and screw your trap together. This will give you a gauge of how much more pipe to cut off the drain to insert a coupling. Done. Extend your cheater vent. The way it is currently plumbed with a disposal unit, it will be plugged constantly
answered Sep 15 at 14:34
Jeff HinzJeff Hinz
212 bronze badges
I cut the T down, now can you explain the cheater vent? At its current height it is too low? I have a female connector so, insert male coupling and add a few more inches to the top of the vent? Thanks.
– Christopher B
Sep 15 at 16:35
add a comment
|
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6 Answers
6
active
oldest
votes
6 Answers
6
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
Bring your Ptrap up or your Sanitary Tee down.
AS noted by others you can cut the tail of the piece where it goes into the top of the Ptrap shorter ( thereby bringing the Ptrap up ), This will allow you to have the down hill slope you need for the disposal. You may need a longer tail piece from the bell on the basin into the tee from the disposal.
OR
I think this is the better option because your sanitary tee is a little too high.
You could cut your drain pipe shorter so the sanitary tee is lower.
Use a regular Ptrap ( non flexible, there is no need for the debris catching flex connection here ).
You also need to mount your air admittance valve properly. It is not high enough, put it as high up as you can in the space between the bowl and the back of the cabinet.
If you put it on a threaded connection just above the san tee you will be able to pull it out to change it if necessary.
edited Sep 20 at 1:54
chicks
1612 silver badges12 bronze badges
answered Sep 14 at 18:02
Alaska ManAlaska Man
5,1685 silver badges14 bronze badges
Thank you! I cut the drain pipe to lower the sanitary tee and it worked perfectly. Appreciate the help.
– Christopher B
Sep 14 at 22:48
1
if it worked then please select the answer as correct. thanks.
– Alaska Man
Sep 15 at 18:10
That was the right solution for a different reason as well -- now you won't have standing water backing into the garbage disposal, which would severely affect its longevity.
– Dave Tweed
Sep 16 at 15:25
add a comment
|
Bring your Ptrap up or your Sanitary Tee down.
AS noted by others you can cut the tail of the piece where it goes into the top of the Ptrap shorter ( thereby bringing the Ptrap up ), This will allow you to have the down hill slope you need for the disposal. You may need a longer tail piece from the bell on the basin into the tee from the disposal.
OR
I think this is the better option because your sanitary tee is a little too high.
You could cut your drain pipe shorter so the sanitary tee is lower.
Use a regular Ptrap ( non flexible, there is no need for the debris catching flex connection here ).
You also need to mount your air admittance valve properly. It is not high enough, put it as high up as you can in the space between the bowl and the back of the cabinet.
If you put it on a threaded connection just above the san tee you will be able to pull it out to change it if necessary.
edited Sep 20 at 1:54
chicks
1612 silver badges12 bronze badges
answered Sep 14 at 18:02
Alaska ManAlaska Man
5,1685 silver badges14 bronze badges
Thank you! I cut the drain pipe to lower the sanitary tee and it worked perfectly. Appreciate the help.
– Christopher B
Sep 14 at 22:48
1
if it worked then please select the answer as correct. thanks.
– Alaska Man
Sep 15 at 18:10
That was the right solution for a different reason as well -- now you won't have standing water backing into the garbage disposal, which would severely affect its longevity.
– Dave Tweed
Sep 16 at 15:25
add a comment
|
Bring your Ptrap up or your Sanitary Tee down.
AS noted by others you can cut the tail of the piece where it goes into the top of the Ptrap shorter ( thereby bringing the Ptrap up ), This will allow you to have the down hill slope you need for the disposal. You may need a longer tail piece from the bell on the basin into the tee from the disposal.
OR
I think this is the better option because your sanitary tee is a little too high.
You could cut your drain pipe shorter so the sanitary tee is lower.
Use a regular Ptrap ( non flexible, there is no need for the debris catching flex connection here ).
You also need to mount your air admittance valve properly. It is not high enough, put it as high up as you can in the space between the bowl and the back of the cabinet.
If you put it on a threaded connection just above the san tee you will be able to pull it out to change it if necessary.
edited Sep 20 at 1:54
chicks
1612 silver badges12 bronze badges
answered Sep 14 at 18:02
Alaska ManAlaska Man
5,1685 silver badges14 bronze badges
Bring your Ptrap up or your Sanitary Tee down.
AS noted by others you can cut the tail of the piece where it goes into the top of the Ptrap shorter ( thereby bringing the Ptrap up ), This will allow you to have the down hill slope you need for the disposal. You may need a longer tail piece from the bell on the basin into the tee from the disposal.
OR
I think this is the better option because your sanitary tee is a little too high.
You could cut your drain pipe shorter so the sanitary tee is lower.
Use a regular Ptrap ( non flexible, there is no need for the debris catching flex connection here ).
You also need to mount your air admittance valve properly. It is not high enough, put it as high up as you can in the space between the bowl and the back of the cabinet.
If you put it on a threaded connection just above the san tee you will be able to pull it out to change it if necessary.
edited Sep 20 at 1:54
chicks
1612 silver badges12 bronze badges
answered Sep 14 at 18:02
Alaska ManAlaska Man
5,1685 silver badges14 bronze badges
edited Sep 20 at 1:54
chicks
1612 silver badges12 bronze badges
edited Sep 20 at 1:54
chicks
1612 silver badges12 bronze badges
edited Sep 20 at 1:54
chicks
1612 silver badges12 bronze badges
1612 silver badges12 bronze badges
answered Sep 14 at 18:02
Alaska ManAlaska Man
5,1685 silver badges14 bronze badges
answered Sep 14 at 18:02
Alaska ManAlaska Man
5,1685 silver badges14 bronze badges
answered Sep 14 at 18:02
Alaska ManAlaska Man
5,1685 silver badges14 bronze badges
5,1685 silver badges14 bronze badges
Thank you! I cut the drain pipe to lower the sanitary tee and it worked perfectly. Appreciate the help.
– Christopher B
Sep 14 at 22:48
1
if it worked then please select the answer as correct. thanks.
– Alaska Man
Sep 15 at 18:10
That was the right solution for a different reason as well -- now you won't have standing water backing into the garbage disposal, which would severely affect its longevity.
– Dave Tweed
Sep 16 at 15:25
add a comment
|
Thank you! I cut the drain pipe to lower the sanitary tee and it worked perfectly. Appreciate the help.
– Christopher B
Sep 14 at 22:48
1
if it worked then please select the answer as correct. thanks.
– Alaska Man
Sep 15 at 18:10
That was the right solution for a different reason as well -- now you won't have standing water backing into the garbage disposal, which would severely affect its longevity.
– Dave Tweed
Sep 16 at 15:25
Thank you! I cut the drain pipe to lower the sanitary tee and it worked perfectly. Appreciate the help.
– Christopher B
Sep 14 at 22:48
Thank you! I cut the drain pipe to lower the sanitary tee and it worked perfectly. Appreciate the help.
– Christopher B
Sep 14 at 22:48
1
1
if it worked then please select the answer as correct. thanks.
– Alaska Man
Sep 15 at 18:10
if it worked then please select the answer as correct. thanks.
– Alaska Man
Sep 15 at 18:10
That was the right solution for a different reason as well -- now you won't have standing water backing into the garbage disposal, which would severely affect its longevity.
– Dave Tweed
Sep 16 at 15:25
That was the right solution for a different reason as well -- now you won't have standing water backing into the garbage disposal, which would severely affect its longevity.
– Dave Tweed
Sep 16 at 15:25
add a comment
|
In the OP's installation the last horizontal run going into the vertical drain appears to be slightly higher than the horizontal run coming from the disposer. I think this will cause the horizontal disposer run to retain liquid. It appears that some of any liquid waste going into the left sink drain would flow back into the disposer. It seems to me that the T in the final drain must be lower by 2 or 3 inches.
See how it is done here (https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?attachments/kitchen-sinks-jpg.15470/):
In the OP's installation the tailpiece from the sink appears to be out of alignment (at a slight angle) with the next piece below it. But this may be an illusion since it also appears to be the case in the installation shown above.
answered Sep 14 at 16:41
Jim StewartJim Stewart
13.5k1 gold badge15 silver badges34 bronze badges
Thanks, that is exactly what i did!
– Christopher B
Sep 14 at 18:00
add a comment
|
In the OP's installation the last horizontal run going into the vertical drain appears to be slightly higher than the horizontal run coming from the disposer. I think this will cause the horizontal disposer run to retain liquid. It appears that some of any liquid waste going into the left sink drain would flow back into the disposer. It seems to me that the T in the final drain must be lower by 2 or 3 inches.
See how it is done here (https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?attachments/kitchen-sinks-jpg.15470/):
In the OP's installation the tailpiece from the sink appears to be out of alignment (at a slight angle) with the next piece below it. But this may be an illusion since it also appears to be the case in the installation shown above.
answered Sep 14 at 16:41
Jim StewartJim Stewart
13.5k1 gold badge15 silver badges34 bronze badges
Thanks, that is exactly what i did!
– Christopher B
Sep 14 at 18:00
add a comment
|
In the OP's installation the last horizontal run going into the vertical drain appears to be slightly higher than the horizontal run coming from the disposer. I think this will cause the horizontal disposer run to retain liquid. It appears that some of any liquid waste going into the left sink drain would flow back into the disposer. It seems to me that the T in the final drain must be lower by 2 or 3 inches.
See how it is done here (https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?attachments/kitchen-sinks-jpg.15470/):
In the OP's installation the tailpiece from the sink appears to be out of alignment (at a slight angle) with the next piece below it. But this may be an illusion since it also appears to be the case in the installation shown above.
answered Sep 14 at 16:41
Jim StewartJim Stewart
13.5k1 gold badge15 silver badges34 bronze badges
In the OP's installation the last horizontal run going into the vertical drain appears to be slightly higher than the horizontal run coming from the disposer. I think this will cause the horizontal disposer run to retain liquid. It appears that some of any liquid waste going into the left sink drain would flow back into the disposer. It seems to me that the T in the final drain must be lower by 2 or 3 inches.
See how it is done here (https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?attachments/kitchen-sinks-jpg.15470/):
In the OP's installation the tailpiece from the sink appears to be out of alignment (at a slight angle) with the next piece below it. But this may be an illusion since it also appears to be the case in the installation shown above.
answered Sep 14 at 16:41
Jim StewartJim Stewart
13.5k1 gold badge15 silver badges34 bronze badges
edited Sep 14 at 17:03
answered Sep 14 at 16:41
Jim StewartJim Stewart
13.5k1 gold badge15 silver badges34 bronze badges
answered Sep 14 at 16:41
Jim StewartJim Stewart
13.5k1 gold badge15 silver badges34 bronze badges
answered Sep 14 at 16:41
Jim StewartJim Stewart
13.5k1 gold badge15 silver badges34 bronze badges
13.5k1 gold badge15 silver badges34 bronze badges
Thanks, that is exactly what i did!
– Christopher B
Sep 14 at 18:00
add a comment
|
Thanks, that is exactly what i did!
– Christopher B
Sep 14 at 18:00
Thanks, that is exactly what i did!
– Christopher B
Sep 14 at 18:00
Thanks, that is exactly what i did!
– Christopher B
Sep 14 at 18:00
add a comment
|
You DO realize you can (perhaps even "are supposed to") cut excess length from the slip-fit trap parts? They are supplied long, but don't need to STAY that way. You can cut most of the tube leading to the trap off, thus raising the trap.
Opioninated commentary: I'd also lose the "flex section" on the other side of the trap - it is the part of this setup that will break first, by a long shot, in most cases. Also helps to promote clogs before then. You should be able to line rigid parts up by rotating them. In this case looks like you might also need to trim the "J tube" slip-fit end to make them line up right.
answered Sep 14 at 14:38
EcnerwalEcnerwal
63.6k4 gold badges54 silver badges110 bronze badges
The slip-fit trap is cut. I used the old setup as a template and cut it down even more, there will still be about a 2 inch gap between the p-trap and the drain pipe. I think I just need to pull it out and start over with the advice I've gotten here so far.
– Christopher B
Sep 14 at 15:01
add a comment
|
You DO realize you can (perhaps even "are supposed to") cut excess length from the slip-fit trap parts? They are supplied long, but don't need to STAY that way. You can cut most of the tube leading to the trap off, thus raising the trap.
Opioninated commentary: I'd also lose the "flex section" on the other side of the trap - it is the part of this setup that will break first, by a long shot, in most cases. Also helps to promote clogs before then. You should be able to line rigid parts up by rotating them. In this case looks like you might also need to trim the "J tube" slip-fit end to make them line up right.
answered Sep 14 at 14:38
EcnerwalEcnerwal
63.6k4 gold badges54 silver badges110 bronze badges
The slip-fit trap is cut. I used the old setup as a template and cut it down even more, there will still be about a 2 inch gap between the p-trap and the drain pipe. I think I just need to pull it out and start over with the advice I've gotten here so far.
– Christopher B
Sep 14 at 15:01
add a comment
|
You DO realize you can (perhaps even "are supposed to") cut excess length from the slip-fit trap parts? They are supplied long, but don't need to STAY that way. You can cut most of the tube leading to the trap off, thus raising the trap.
Opioninated commentary: I'd also lose the "flex section" on the other side of the trap - it is the part of this setup that will break first, by a long shot, in most cases. Also helps to promote clogs before then. You should be able to line rigid parts up by rotating them. In this case looks like you might also need to trim the "J tube" slip-fit end to make them line up right.
answered Sep 14 at 14:38
EcnerwalEcnerwal
63.6k4 gold badges54 silver badges110 bronze badges
You DO realize you can (perhaps even "are supposed to") cut excess length from the slip-fit trap parts? They are supplied long, but don't need to STAY that way. You can cut most of the tube leading to the trap off, thus raising the trap.
Opioninated commentary: I'd also lose the "flex section" on the other side of the trap - it is the part of this setup that will break first, by a long shot, in most cases. Also helps to promote clogs before then. You should be able to line rigid parts up by rotating them. In this case looks like you might also need to trim the "J tube" slip-fit end to make them line up right.
answered Sep 14 at 14:38
EcnerwalEcnerwal
63.6k4 gold badges54 silver badges110 bronze badges
answered Sep 14 at 14:38
EcnerwalEcnerwal
63.6k4 gold badges54 silver badges110 bronze badges
answered Sep 14 at 14:38
EcnerwalEcnerwal
63.6k4 gold badges54 silver badges110 bronze badges
answered Sep 14 at 14:38
EcnerwalEcnerwal
63.6k4 gold badges54 silver badges110 bronze badges
63.6k4 gold badges54 silver badges110 bronze badges
The slip-fit trap is cut. I used the old setup as a template and cut it down even more, there will still be about a 2 inch gap between the p-trap and the drain pipe. I think I just need to pull it out and start over with the advice I've gotten here so far.
– Christopher B
Sep 14 at 15:01
add a comment
|
The slip-fit trap is cut. I used the old setup as a template and cut it down even more, there will still be about a 2 inch gap between the p-trap and the drain pipe. I think I just need to pull it out and start over with the advice I've gotten here so far.
– Christopher B
Sep 14 at 15:01
The slip-fit trap is cut. I used the old setup as a template and cut it down even more, there will still be about a 2 inch gap between the p-trap and the drain pipe. I think I just need to pull it out and start over with the advice I've gotten here so far.
– Christopher B
Sep 14 at 15:01
The slip-fit trap is cut. I used the old setup as a template and cut it down even more, there will still be about a 2 inch gap between the p-trap and the drain pipe. I think I just need to pull it out and start over with the advice I've gotten here so far.
– Christopher B
Sep 14 at 15:01
add a comment
|
The flange piece connected to the sink looks like it isn't mounted flush and could cause leaks. Readjusting the garbage disposal might fix that. It also looks like you have enough room to get rid of that adjustable trap and install a regular one. The "jog" in that trap and the excessive length will probably cause water to rise into that sink when you run the disposal.... Good luck.
answered Sep 14 at 14:47
JACKJACK
7,8431 gold badge6 silver badges20 bronze badges
Thanks, I will adjust that flange and see where I am falling short on the trap/drain connection.
– Christopher B
Sep 14 at 15:00
add a comment
|
The flange piece connected to the sink looks like it isn't mounted flush and could cause leaks. Readjusting the garbage disposal might fix that. It also looks like you have enough room to get rid of that adjustable trap and install a regular one. The "jog" in that trap and the excessive length will probably cause water to rise into that sink when you run the disposal.... Good luck.
answered Sep 14 at 14:47
JACKJACK
7,8431 gold badge6 silver badges20 bronze badges
Thanks, I will adjust that flange and see where I am falling short on the trap/drain connection.
– Christopher B
Sep 14 at 15:00
add a comment
|
The flange piece connected to the sink looks like it isn't mounted flush and could cause leaks. Readjusting the garbage disposal might fix that. It also looks like you have enough room to get rid of that adjustable trap and install a regular one. The "jog" in that trap and the excessive length will probably cause water to rise into that sink when you run the disposal.... Good luck.
answered Sep 14 at 14:47
JACKJACK
7,8431 gold badge6 silver badges20 bronze badges
The flange piece connected to the sink looks like it isn't mounted flush and could cause leaks. Readjusting the garbage disposal might fix that. It also looks like you have enough room to get rid of that adjustable trap and install a regular one. The "jog" in that trap and the excessive length will probably cause water to rise into that sink when you run the disposal.... Good luck.
answered Sep 14 at 14:47
JACKJACK
7,8431 gold badge6 silver badges20 bronze badges
answered Sep 14 at 14:47
JACKJACK
7,8431 gold badge6 silver badges20 bronze badges
answered Sep 14 at 14:47
JACKJACK
7,8431 gold badge6 silver badges20 bronze badges
answered Sep 14 at 14:47
JACKJACK
7,8431 gold badge6 silver badges20 bronze badges
7,8431 gold badge6 silver badges20 bronze badges
Thanks, I will adjust that flange and see where I am falling short on the trap/drain connection.
– Christopher B
Sep 14 at 15:00
add a comment
|
Thanks, I will adjust that flange and see where I am falling short on the trap/drain connection.
– Christopher B
Sep 14 at 15:00
Thanks, I will adjust that flange and see where I am falling short on the trap/drain connection.
– Christopher B
Sep 14 at 15:00
Thanks, I will adjust that flange and see where I am falling short on the trap/drain connection.
– Christopher B
Sep 14 at 15:00
add a comment
|
Maximum water trap height is 4", that's the distance between bottom of P trap and height of P trap outflow.
answered Sep 15 at 14:28
Jack WingoJack Wingo
211 bronze badge
add a comment
|
Maximum water trap height is 4", that's the distance between bottom of P trap and height of P trap outflow.
answered Sep 15 at 14:28
Jack WingoJack Wingo
211 bronze badge
add a comment
|
Maximum water trap height is 4", that's the distance between bottom of P trap and height of P trap outflow.
answered Sep 15 at 14:28
Jack WingoJack Wingo
211 bronze badge
Maximum water trap height is 4", that's the distance between bottom of P trap and height of P trap outflow.
answered Sep 15 at 14:28
Jack WingoJack Wingo
211 bronze badge
answered Sep 15 at 14:28
Jack WingoJack Wingo
211 bronze badge
answered Sep 15 at 14:28
Jack WingoJack Wingo
211 bronze badge
answered Sep 15 at 14:28
Jack WingoJack Wingo
211 bronze badge
211 bronze badge
add a comment
|
add a comment
|
Cut your T off and move it down is the way to fix this. Leave the T upstream of your trap connected, cut the T off the pipe coming through the floor approximately an 1"- 1.5" below the T. Eliminate the flex piece and screw your trap together. This will give you a gauge of how much more pipe to cut off the drain to insert a coupling. Done. Extend your cheater vent. The way it is currently plumbed with a disposal unit, it will be plugged constantly
answered Sep 15 at 14:34
Jeff HinzJeff Hinz
212 bronze badges
I cut the T down, now can you explain the cheater vent? At its current height it is too low? I have a female connector so, insert male coupling and add a few more inches to the top of the vent? Thanks.
– Christopher B
Sep 15 at 16:35
add a comment
|
Cut your T off and move it down is the way to fix this. Leave the T upstream of your trap connected, cut the T off the pipe coming through the floor approximately an 1"- 1.5" below the T. Eliminate the flex piece and screw your trap together. This will give you a gauge of how much more pipe to cut off the drain to insert a coupling. Done. Extend your cheater vent. The way it is currently plumbed with a disposal unit, it will be plugged constantly
answered Sep 15 at 14:34
Jeff HinzJeff Hinz
212 bronze badges
I cut the T down, now can you explain the cheater vent? At its current height it is too low? I have a female connector so, insert male coupling and add a few more inches to the top of the vent? Thanks.
– Christopher B
Sep 15 at 16:35
add a comment
|
Cut your T off and move it down is the way to fix this. Leave the T upstream of your trap connected, cut the T off the pipe coming through the floor approximately an 1"- 1.5" below the T. Eliminate the flex piece and screw your trap together. This will give you a gauge of how much more pipe to cut off the drain to insert a coupling. Done. Extend your cheater vent. The way it is currently plumbed with a disposal unit, it will be plugged constantly
answered Sep 15 at 14:34
Jeff HinzJeff Hinz
212 bronze badges
Cut your T off and move it down is the way to fix this. Leave the T upstream of your trap connected, cut the T off the pipe coming through the floor approximately an 1"- 1.5" below the T. Eliminate the flex piece and screw your trap together. This will give you a gauge of how much more pipe to cut off the drain to insert a coupling. Done. Extend your cheater vent. The way it is currently plumbed with a disposal unit, it will be plugged constantly
answered Sep 15 at 14:34
Jeff HinzJeff Hinz
212 bronze badges
edited Sep 15 at 15:00
answered Sep 15 at 14:34
Jeff HinzJeff Hinz
212 bronze badges
answered Sep 15 at 14:34
Jeff HinzJeff Hinz
212 bronze badges
answered Sep 15 at 14:34
Jeff HinzJeff Hinz
212 bronze badges
212 bronze badges
I cut the T down, now can you explain the cheater vent? At its current height it is too low? I have a female connector so, insert male coupling and add a few more inches to the top of the vent? Thanks.
– Christopher B
Sep 15 at 16:35
add a comment
|
I cut the T down, now can you explain the cheater vent? At its current height it is too low? I have a female connector so, insert male coupling and add a few more inches to the top of the vent? Thanks.
– Christopher B
Sep 15 at 16:35
I cut the T down, now can you explain the cheater vent? At its current height it is too low? I have a female connector so, insert male coupling and add a few more inches to the top of the vent? Thanks.
– Christopher B
Sep 15 at 16:35
I cut the T down, now can you explain the cheater vent? At its current height it is too low? I have a female connector so, insert male coupling and add a few more inches to the top of the vent? Thanks.
– Christopher B
Sep 15 at 16:35
add a comment
|
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