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How do I get a cleat that's stuck in a pedal, detached from the shoe, out?
How to get my feet out of SPD pedals?Can someone give me a short description and comparison of the different road cycling pedal / shoe systems?Unlock cleat from clipless pedalClipless Pedals Brand IdentificationHow to copy cleat angle on the same shoe?What is the metric thread diameter of my crank arm pedal thread that's strippedCleat problem, stuck in a shoeHow do I make shimano SPD cleat lock into pedal more securely?
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While out riding on my XC bike today, I encountered an issue with my cleat: The connector between the cleat and the shoe - the part that you screw into - died, and I lost a screw. So I had the shoe attached to the pedal, unable to unclip - because I was able to completely turn the shoe around without the cleat detaching. (The other cleat still worked, and I noticed that I couldn't unclip in a safe enough situation that I avoided biting the dust.)
When I got home, I detached the shoe my turning it around enough times that it unscrewed. (Trying to tighten it by screwing it the other way didn't work.) Unfortunately, now the shoe is detached, leaving the cleat itself still inside the pedal, with a single screw sticking out:
How do I get the cleat loose?
pedals spd cleat pedals-clipless
edited May 30 at 9:59
Swifty
4,7572 gold badges10 silver badges35 bronze badges
asked May 29 at 18:51
user58user58
2994 silver badges18 bronze badges
add a comment
|
While out riding on my XC bike today, I encountered an issue with my cleat: The connector between the cleat and the shoe - the part that you screw into - died, and I lost a screw. So I had the shoe attached to the pedal, unable to unclip - because I was able to completely turn the shoe around without the cleat detaching. (The other cleat still worked, and I noticed that I couldn't unclip in a safe enough situation that I avoided biting the dust.)
When I got home, I detached the shoe my turning it around enough times that it unscrewed. (Trying to tighten it by screwing it the other way didn't work.) Unfortunately, now the shoe is detached, leaving the cleat itself still inside the pedal, with a single screw sticking out:
How do I get the cleat loose?
pedals spd cleat pedals-clipless
edited May 30 at 9:59
Swifty
4,7572 gold badges10 silver badges35 bronze badges
asked May 29 at 18:51
user58user58
2994 silver badges18 bronze badges
add a comment
|
While out riding on my XC bike today, I encountered an issue with my cleat: The connector between the cleat and the shoe - the part that you screw into - died, and I lost a screw. So I had the shoe attached to the pedal, unable to unclip - because I was able to completely turn the shoe around without the cleat detaching. (The other cleat still worked, and I noticed that I couldn't unclip in a safe enough situation that I avoided biting the dust.)
When I got home, I detached the shoe my turning it around enough times that it unscrewed. (Trying to tighten it by screwing it the other way didn't work.) Unfortunately, now the shoe is detached, leaving the cleat itself still inside the pedal, with a single screw sticking out:
How do I get the cleat loose?
pedals spd cleat pedals-clipless
edited May 30 at 9:59
Swifty
4,7572 gold badges10 silver badges35 bronze badges
asked May 29 at 18:51
user58user58
2994 silver badges18 bronze badges
While out riding on my XC bike today, I encountered an issue with my cleat: The connector between the cleat and the shoe - the part that you screw into - died, and I lost a screw. So I had the shoe attached to the pedal, unable to unclip - because I was able to completely turn the shoe around without the cleat detaching. (The other cleat still worked, and I noticed that I couldn't unclip in a safe enough situation that I avoided biting the dust.)
When I got home, I detached the shoe my turning it around enough times that it unscrewed. (Trying to tighten it by screwing it the other way didn't work.) Unfortunately, now the shoe is detached, leaving the cleat itself still inside the pedal, with a single screw sticking out:
How do I get the cleat loose?
pedals spd cleat pedals-clipless
pedals spd cleat pedals-clipless
edited May 30 at 9:59
Swifty
4,7572 gold badges10 silver badges35 bronze badges
asked May 29 at 18:51
user58user58
2994 silver badges18 bronze badges
edited May 30 at 9:59
Swifty
4,7572 gold badges10 silver badges35 bronze badges
asked May 29 at 18:51
user58user58
2994 silver badges18 bronze badges
edited May 30 at 9:59
Swifty
4,7572 gold badges10 silver badges35 bronze badges
edited May 30 at 9:59
Swifty
4,7572 gold badges10 silver badges35 bronze badges
edited May 30 at 9:59
Swifty
4,7572 gold badges10 silver badges35 bronze badges
4,7572 gold badges10 silver badges35 bronze badges
asked May 29 at 18:51
user58user58
2994 silver badges18 bronze badges
asked May 29 at 18:51
user58user58
2994 silver badges18 bronze badges
asked May 29 at 18:51
user58user58
2994 silver badges18 bronze badges
2994 silver badges18 bronze badges
add a comment
|
add a comment
|
3 Answers
3
active
oldest
votes
Your goal is to apply torque to the cleat as you would with your foot in a shoe. So essentially you need something like a gigantic flat screwdriver. I have a mini crowbar that would do the job, for example, but if you have any metal tyre levers they might be big enough.
Slacken off any tension adjusting screw first
answered May 29 at 19:18
Chris HChris H
28k1 gold badge42 silver badges128 bronze badges
5
Just want to add: counting the turns as you release the tensioning screw is the easiest way to get it properly tensioned once you've extracted the cleat.
– DavidW
May 29 at 19:44
2
Suggest putting the last line first and bolding it - that's really going to help and should be first.
– Criggie♦
May 30 at 10:31
add a comment
|
Use water-pump-pliers or locking pliers (vise-grip). Grip the cleat and turn it either clock-wise or anti-clock-wise
Alternatively a medium sized screwdriver used as a lever at the rear 'nose' of the cleat will pop it out. Mind fingers and eyes, though! It might be a good idea for both methods to reduce the spring tension of the pedal by turning the adjustment screw as far to the '-' sign as possible with a hex key.
answered May 29 at 19:16
CarelCarel
4,8581 gold badge9 silver badges13 bronze badges
add a comment
|
Other answers are good, but I'll add these possible options if you're short of the tools they require:
Use an appropriately sized punch or drift and tap the cleat out with
a hammer. Hit the back but from the side, you need to be pretty handy but a quick blow in just the right spot should do it. If you can't figure out what I
mean, then it's best you don't try it.Unscrew the Phillip's CSK screws and see what
happens. As the cleat is under compression, the front bit might pop
off with a wee bit of gusto at some point. If you
see any coloured residue on the threads of those screws afterwards
that is some kind of threadlock, best apply the same when you
reinstall them.
An amount of lubricant around the rear of the cleat would likely help in most of these discussed cases.
answered May 30 at 10:32
Lamar LatrellLamar Latrell
2121 silver badge10 bronze badges
1
I wouldn't take the pedal apart. The springs are under considerable load.
– Carel
May 30 at 12:28
2
Looking at a diagram of a similar pedal, it doesn't appear that the "toe plate" (4 on diagram) has anything to do with the springs. It looks like it could be easily removed and re-attached. Not completely sure though, maybe someone with more experience could chime in.
– Kibbee
May 30 at 13:03
1
IIRC the spring on the other side of the pedal pushes against the pedal itself - in that case, the toe plate is under no load will be easy to remove & replace. Just check it visually, you should be able to see it
– Useless
May 30 at 13:18
The screws are certainly not Philips headed but JIS screws. They don't look like Philips. As far as I know, Shimano never used Philips.
– gschenk
May 30 at 20:04
@gschenk, ok, feel free to edit the answer and advise the requirement for a JIS driver. Meanwhile, some people may make do with Phillips in its absence.
– Lamar Latrell
May 30 at 22:25
|
show 3 more comments
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3 Answers
3
active
oldest
votes
3 Answers
3
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
Your goal is to apply torque to the cleat as you would with your foot in a shoe. So essentially you need something like a gigantic flat screwdriver. I have a mini crowbar that would do the job, for example, but if you have any metal tyre levers they might be big enough.
Slacken off any tension adjusting screw first
answered May 29 at 19:18
Chris HChris H
28k1 gold badge42 silver badges128 bronze badges
5
Just want to add: counting the turns as you release the tensioning screw is the easiest way to get it properly tensioned once you've extracted the cleat.
– DavidW
May 29 at 19:44
2
Suggest putting the last line first and bolding it - that's really going to help and should be first.
– Criggie♦
May 30 at 10:31
add a comment
|
Your goal is to apply torque to the cleat as you would with your foot in a shoe. So essentially you need something like a gigantic flat screwdriver. I have a mini crowbar that would do the job, for example, but if you have any metal tyre levers they might be big enough.
Slacken off any tension adjusting screw first
answered May 29 at 19:18
Chris HChris H
28k1 gold badge42 silver badges128 bronze badges
5
Just want to add: counting the turns as you release the tensioning screw is the easiest way to get it properly tensioned once you've extracted the cleat.
– DavidW
May 29 at 19:44
2
Suggest putting the last line first and bolding it - that's really going to help and should be first.
– Criggie♦
May 30 at 10:31
add a comment
|
Your goal is to apply torque to the cleat as you would with your foot in a shoe. So essentially you need something like a gigantic flat screwdriver. I have a mini crowbar that would do the job, for example, but if you have any metal tyre levers they might be big enough.
Slacken off any tension adjusting screw first
answered May 29 at 19:18
Chris HChris H
28k1 gold badge42 silver badges128 bronze badges
Your goal is to apply torque to the cleat as you would with your foot in a shoe. So essentially you need something like a gigantic flat screwdriver. I have a mini crowbar that would do the job, for example, but if you have any metal tyre levers they might be big enough.
Slacken off any tension adjusting screw first
answered May 29 at 19:18
Chris HChris H
28k1 gold badge42 silver badges128 bronze badges
answered May 29 at 19:18
Chris HChris H
28k1 gold badge42 silver badges128 bronze badges
answered May 29 at 19:18
Chris HChris H
28k1 gold badge42 silver badges128 bronze badges
answered May 29 at 19:18
Chris HChris H
28k1 gold badge42 silver badges128 bronze badges
28k1 gold badge42 silver badges128 bronze badges
5
Just want to add: counting the turns as you release the tensioning screw is the easiest way to get it properly tensioned once you've extracted the cleat.
– DavidW
May 29 at 19:44
2
Suggest putting the last line first and bolding it - that's really going to help and should be first.
– Criggie♦
May 30 at 10:31
add a comment
|
5
Just want to add: counting the turns as you release the tensioning screw is the easiest way to get it properly tensioned once you've extracted the cleat.
– DavidW
May 29 at 19:44
2
Suggest putting the last line first and bolding it - that's really going to help and should be first.
– Criggie♦
May 30 at 10:31
5
5
Just want to add: counting the turns as you release the tensioning screw is the easiest way to get it properly tensioned once you've extracted the cleat.
– DavidW
May 29 at 19:44
Just want to add: counting the turns as you release the tensioning screw is the easiest way to get it properly tensioned once you've extracted the cleat.
– DavidW
May 29 at 19:44
2
2
Suggest putting the last line first and bolding it - that's really going to help and should be first.
– Criggie♦
May 30 at 10:31
Suggest putting the last line first and bolding it - that's really going to help and should be first.
– Criggie♦
May 30 at 10:31
add a comment
|
Use water-pump-pliers or locking pliers (vise-grip). Grip the cleat and turn it either clock-wise or anti-clock-wise
Alternatively a medium sized screwdriver used as a lever at the rear 'nose' of the cleat will pop it out. Mind fingers and eyes, though! It might be a good idea for both methods to reduce the spring tension of the pedal by turning the adjustment screw as far to the '-' sign as possible with a hex key.
answered May 29 at 19:16
CarelCarel
4,8581 gold badge9 silver badges13 bronze badges
add a comment
|
Use water-pump-pliers or locking pliers (vise-grip). Grip the cleat and turn it either clock-wise or anti-clock-wise
Alternatively a medium sized screwdriver used as a lever at the rear 'nose' of the cleat will pop it out. Mind fingers and eyes, though! It might be a good idea for both methods to reduce the spring tension of the pedal by turning the adjustment screw as far to the '-' sign as possible with a hex key.
answered May 29 at 19:16
CarelCarel
4,8581 gold badge9 silver badges13 bronze badges
add a comment
|
Use water-pump-pliers or locking pliers (vise-grip). Grip the cleat and turn it either clock-wise or anti-clock-wise
Alternatively a medium sized screwdriver used as a lever at the rear 'nose' of the cleat will pop it out. Mind fingers and eyes, though! It might be a good idea for both methods to reduce the spring tension of the pedal by turning the adjustment screw as far to the '-' sign as possible with a hex key.
answered May 29 at 19:16
CarelCarel
4,8581 gold badge9 silver badges13 bronze badges
Use water-pump-pliers or locking pliers (vise-grip). Grip the cleat and turn it either clock-wise or anti-clock-wise
Alternatively a medium sized screwdriver used as a lever at the rear 'nose' of the cleat will pop it out. Mind fingers and eyes, though! It might be a good idea for both methods to reduce the spring tension of the pedal by turning the adjustment screw as far to the '-' sign as possible with a hex key.
answered May 29 at 19:16
CarelCarel
4,8581 gold badge9 silver badges13 bronze badges
answered May 29 at 19:16
CarelCarel
4,8581 gold badge9 silver badges13 bronze badges
answered May 29 at 19:16
CarelCarel
4,8581 gold badge9 silver badges13 bronze badges
answered May 29 at 19:16
CarelCarel
4,8581 gold badge9 silver badges13 bronze badges
4,8581 gold badge9 silver badges13 bronze badges
add a comment
|
add a comment
|
Other answers are good, but I'll add these possible options if you're short of the tools they require:
Use an appropriately sized punch or drift and tap the cleat out with
a hammer. Hit the back but from the side, you need to be pretty handy but a quick blow in just the right spot should do it. If you can't figure out what I
mean, then it's best you don't try it.Unscrew the Phillip's CSK screws and see what
happens. As the cleat is under compression, the front bit might pop
off with a wee bit of gusto at some point. If you
see any coloured residue on the threads of those screws afterwards
that is some kind of threadlock, best apply the same when you
reinstall them.
An amount of lubricant around the rear of the cleat would likely help in most of these discussed cases.
answered May 30 at 10:32
Lamar LatrellLamar Latrell
2121 silver badge10 bronze badges
1
I wouldn't take the pedal apart. The springs are under considerable load.
– Carel
May 30 at 12:28
2
Looking at a diagram of a similar pedal, it doesn't appear that the "toe plate" (4 on diagram) has anything to do with the springs. It looks like it could be easily removed and re-attached. Not completely sure though, maybe someone with more experience could chime in.
– Kibbee
May 30 at 13:03
1
IIRC the spring on the other side of the pedal pushes against the pedal itself - in that case, the toe plate is under no load will be easy to remove & replace. Just check it visually, you should be able to see it
– Useless
May 30 at 13:18
The screws are certainly not Philips headed but JIS screws. They don't look like Philips. As far as I know, Shimano never used Philips.
– gschenk
May 30 at 20:04
@gschenk, ok, feel free to edit the answer and advise the requirement for a JIS driver. Meanwhile, some people may make do with Phillips in its absence.
– Lamar Latrell
May 30 at 22:25
|
show 3 more comments
Other answers are good, but I'll add these possible options if you're short of the tools they require:
Use an appropriately sized punch or drift and tap the cleat out with
a hammer. Hit the back but from the side, you need to be pretty handy but a quick blow in just the right spot should do it. If you can't figure out what I
mean, then it's best you don't try it.Unscrew the Phillip's CSK screws and see what
happens. As the cleat is under compression, the front bit might pop
off with a wee bit of gusto at some point. If you
see any coloured residue on the threads of those screws afterwards
that is some kind of threadlock, best apply the same when you
reinstall them.
An amount of lubricant around the rear of the cleat would likely help in most of these discussed cases.
answered May 30 at 10:32
Lamar LatrellLamar Latrell
2121 silver badge10 bronze badges
1
I wouldn't take the pedal apart. The springs are under considerable load.
– Carel
May 30 at 12:28
2
Looking at a diagram of a similar pedal, it doesn't appear that the "toe plate" (4 on diagram) has anything to do with the springs. It looks like it could be easily removed and re-attached. Not completely sure though, maybe someone with more experience could chime in.
– Kibbee
May 30 at 13:03
1
IIRC the spring on the other side of the pedal pushes against the pedal itself - in that case, the toe plate is under no load will be easy to remove & replace. Just check it visually, you should be able to see it
– Useless
May 30 at 13:18
The screws are certainly not Philips headed but JIS screws. They don't look like Philips. As far as I know, Shimano never used Philips.
– gschenk
May 30 at 20:04
@gschenk, ok, feel free to edit the answer and advise the requirement for a JIS driver. Meanwhile, some people may make do with Phillips in its absence.
– Lamar Latrell
May 30 at 22:25
|
show 3 more comments
Other answers are good, but I'll add these possible options if you're short of the tools they require:
Use an appropriately sized punch or drift and tap the cleat out with
a hammer. Hit the back but from the side, you need to be pretty handy but a quick blow in just the right spot should do it. If you can't figure out what I
mean, then it's best you don't try it.Unscrew the Phillip's CSK screws and see what
happens. As the cleat is under compression, the front bit might pop
off with a wee bit of gusto at some point. If you
see any coloured residue on the threads of those screws afterwards
that is some kind of threadlock, best apply the same when you
reinstall them.
An amount of lubricant around the rear of the cleat would likely help in most of these discussed cases.
answered May 30 at 10:32
Lamar LatrellLamar Latrell
2121 silver badge10 bronze badges
Other answers are good, but I'll add these possible options if you're short of the tools they require:
Use an appropriately sized punch or drift and tap the cleat out with
a hammer. Hit the back but from the side, you need to be pretty handy but a quick blow in just the right spot should do it. If you can't figure out what I
mean, then it's best you don't try it.Unscrew the Phillip's CSK screws and see what
happens. As the cleat is under compression, the front bit might pop
off with a wee bit of gusto at some point. If you
see any coloured residue on the threads of those screws afterwards
that is some kind of threadlock, best apply the same when you
reinstall them.
An amount of lubricant around the rear of the cleat would likely help in most of these discussed cases.
answered May 30 at 10:32
Lamar LatrellLamar Latrell
2121 silver badge10 bronze badges
answered May 30 at 10:32
Lamar LatrellLamar Latrell
2121 silver badge10 bronze badges
answered May 30 at 10:32
Lamar LatrellLamar Latrell
2121 silver badge10 bronze badges
answered May 30 at 10:32
Lamar LatrellLamar Latrell
2121 silver badge10 bronze badges
2121 silver badge10 bronze badges
1
I wouldn't take the pedal apart. The springs are under considerable load.
– Carel
May 30 at 12:28
2
Looking at a diagram of a similar pedal, it doesn't appear that the "toe plate" (4 on diagram) has anything to do with the springs. It looks like it could be easily removed and re-attached. Not completely sure though, maybe someone with more experience could chime in.
– Kibbee
May 30 at 13:03
1
IIRC the spring on the other side of the pedal pushes against the pedal itself - in that case, the toe plate is under no load will be easy to remove & replace. Just check it visually, you should be able to see it
– Useless
May 30 at 13:18
The screws are certainly not Philips headed but JIS screws. They don't look like Philips. As far as I know, Shimano never used Philips.
– gschenk
May 30 at 20:04
@gschenk, ok, feel free to edit the answer and advise the requirement for a JIS driver. Meanwhile, some people may make do with Phillips in its absence.
– Lamar Latrell
May 30 at 22:25
|
show 3 more comments
1
I wouldn't take the pedal apart. The springs are under considerable load.
– Carel
May 30 at 12:28
2
Looking at a diagram of a similar pedal, it doesn't appear that the "toe plate" (4 on diagram) has anything to do with the springs. It looks like it could be easily removed and re-attached. Not completely sure though, maybe someone with more experience could chime in.
– Kibbee
May 30 at 13:03
1
IIRC the spring on the other side of the pedal pushes against the pedal itself - in that case, the toe plate is under no load will be easy to remove & replace. Just check it visually, you should be able to see it
– Useless
May 30 at 13:18
The screws are certainly not Philips headed but JIS screws. They don't look like Philips. As far as I know, Shimano never used Philips.
– gschenk
May 30 at 20:04
@gschenk, ok, feel free to edit the answer and advise the requirement for a JIS driver. Meanwhile, some people may make do with Phillips in its absence.
– Lamar Latrell
May 30 at 22:25
1
1
I wouldn't take the pedal apart. The springs are under considerable load.
– Carel
May 30 at 12:28
I wouldn't take the pedal apart. The springs are under considerable load.
– Carel
May 30 at 12:28
2
2
Looking at a diagram of a similar pedal, it doesn't appear that the "toe plate" (4 on diagram) has anything to do with the springs. It looks like it could be easily removed and re-attached. Not completely sure though, maybe someone with more experience could chime in.
– Kibbee
May 30 at 13:03
Looking at a diagram of a similar pedal, it doesn't appear that the "toe plate" (4 on diagram) has anything to do with the springs. It looks like it could be easily removed and re-attached. Not completely sure though, maybe someone with more experience could chime in.
– Kibbee
May 30 at 13:03
1
1
IIRC the spring on the other side of the pedal pushes against the pedal itself - in that case, the toe plate is under no load will be easy to remove & replace. Just check it visually, you should be able to see it
– Useless
May 30 at 13:18
IIRC the spring on the other side of the pedal pushes against the pedal itself - in that case, the toe plate is under no load will be easy to remove & replace. Just check it visually, you should be able to see it
– Useless
May 30 at 13:18
The screws are certainly not Philips headed but JIS screws. They don't look like Philips. As far as I know, Shimano never used Philips.
– gschenk
May 30 at 20:04
The screws are certainly not Philips headed but JIS screws. They don't look like Philips. As far as I know, Shimano never used Philips.
– gschenk
May 30 at 20:04
@gschenk, ok, feel free to edit the answer and advise the requirement for a JIS driver. Meanwhile, some people may make do with Phillips in its absence.
– Lamar Latrell
May 30 at 22:25
@gschenk, ok, feel free to edit the answer and advise the requirement for a JIS driver. Meanwhile, some people may make do with Phillips in its absence.
– Lamar Latrell
May 30 at 22:25
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