Prime joint compound before latex paint? The 2019 Stack Overflow Developer Survey Results Are InHow long does setting-type joint compound have to dry before priming?how long should I let latex paint dry before installing outlet covers and other fixtures?Are there differences to drywall joint compound and plaster?I have to put a second coat of Sheetrock joint compound on a patch job, do I need to wet the first coat?Will joint compound / drywall mud clog my drain?Painting oil base over latex paint using a latex primerJoint Compound was too dry, now whatWhat kind of joint compound over plywoodCan I prime/paint these walls?Accidentally Used Topping Compound for Taping Drywall Joint. What To Do?
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Prime joint compound before latex paint?
The 2019 Stack Overflow Developer Survey Results Are InHow long does setting-type joint compound have to dry before priming?how long should I let latex paint dry before installing outlet covers and other fixtures?Are there differences to drywall joint compound and plaster?I have to put a second coat of Sheetrock joint compound on a patch job, do I need to wet the first coat?Will joint compound / drywall mud clog my drain?Painting oil base over latex paint using a latex primerJoint Compound was too dry, now whatWhat kind of joint compound over plywoodCan I prime/paint these walls?Accidentally Used Topping Compound for Taping Drywall Joint. What To Do?
.everyoneloves__top-leaderboard:empty,.everyoneloves__mid-leaderboard:empty,.everyoneloves__bot-mid-leaderboard:empty margin-bottom:0;
I'm painting a room that had previously been wallpapered. The walls are veneer plaster coated, so the paper was easy to remove and clean the plaster.
However there are patches for wiring, dings and other artifacts of sloppy plastering that I've covered with regular joint compound.
As I start painting (latex) I find that unless I'm really quick and wet across the compound, it starts to come up and ruin the finish.
Should I be spray priming? What do others do about this issue?
painting drywall-mud
asked 2 days ago
DaveMDaveM
924315
add a comment |
I'm painting a room that had previously been wallpapered. The walls are veneer plaster coated, so the paper was easy to remove and clean the plaster.
However there are patches for wiring, dings and other artifacts of sloppy plastering that I've covered with regular joint compound.
As I start painting (latex) I find that unless I'm really quick and wet across the compound, it starts to come up and ruin the finish.
Should I be spray priming? What do others do about this issue?
painting drywall-mud
asked 2 days ago
DaveMDaveM
924315
Good question. I always cover those spots with a brush first, as the rolling is when it comes up for me. The downside is that it can alter the texture of the finished wall.
– Evil Elf
2 days ago
@kris, answers go down there.
– isherwood
2 days ago
add a comment |
I'm painting a room that had previously been wallpapered. The walls are veneer plaster coated, so the paper was easy to remove and clean the plaster.
However there are patches for wiring, dings and other artifacts of sloppy plastering that I've covered with regular joint compound.
As I start painting (latex) I find that unless I'm really quick and wet across the compound, it starts to come up and ruin the finish.
Should I be spray priming? What do others do about this issue?
painting drywall-mud
asked 2 days ago
DaveMDaveM
924315
I'm painting a room that had previously been wallpapered. The walls are veneer plaster coated, so the paper was easy to remove and clean the plaster.
However there are patches for wiring, dings and other artifacts of sloppy plastering that I've covered with regular joint compound.
As I start painting (latex) I find that unless I'm really quick and wet across the compound, it starts to come up and ruin the finish.
Should I be spray priming? What do others do about this issue?
painting drywall-mud
painting drywall-mud
asked 2 days ago
DaveMDaveM
924315
asked 2 days ago
DaveMDaveM
924315
asked 2 days ago
DaveMDaveM
924315
asked 2 days ago
DaveMDaveM
924315
asked 2 days ago
DaveMDaveM
924315
924315
Good question. I always cover those spots with a brush first, as the rolling is when it comes up for me. The downside is that it can alter the texture of the finished wall.
– Evil Elf
2 days ago
@kris, answers go down there.
– isherwood
2 days ago
add a comment |
Good question. I always cover those spots with a brush first, as the rolling is when it comes up for me. The downside is that it can alter the texture of the finished wall.
– Evil Elf
2 days ago
@kris, answers go down there.
– isherwood
2 days ago
Good question. I always cover those spots with a brush first, as the rolling is when it comes up for me. The downside is that it can alter the texture of the finished wall.
– Evil Elf
2 days ago
Good question. I always cover those spots with a brush first, as the rolling is when it comes up for me. The downside is that it can alter the texture of the finished wall.
– Evil Elf
2 days ago
@kris, answers go down there.
– isherwood
2 days ago
@kris, answers go down there.
– isherwood
2 days ago
add a comment |
4 Answers
4
active
oldest
votes
A primer is recommended for joint compound. Using a primer seals the mud and actually uses less paint with a even finish in the long run.
answered 2 days ago
Ed BealEd Beal
34.8k12149
4
The most significant benefit is more even sheen in the finished product.
– isherwood
2 days ago
add a comment |
If you find you're doing a lot of patches, buy some "new drywall" primer. It's cheaper and helps you get the new compound ready for paint just as well (it's also latex). It generally is only available in gallons, though (with the assumption you've done a whole room in drywall)
If you're not doing a LOT of patches, consider using a better patch. Joint compound is different from vinyl spackle, and some types of spackle come pre-primed now.
answered 2 days ago
MachavityMachavity
8,27821941
1
Commonly called PVA Primer, and it can be tinted (like any other primer) to match the paint color if you're using a color other than white.
– JPhi1618
2 days ago
So you are saying use spackle instead of mud?
– DaveM
2 days ago
1
@DaveM For smaller patches, yes. Spackle doesn't shrink and tends to be a bit stiffer, so it fills larger holes better. And 3M, for instance, makes a pre-primed spackle
– Machavity
2 days ago
add a comment |
Huh? Of course you will. Always.
Anytime you put topcoat paint on a surface that is inconsistent, it will show inconsistent results. The topcoat will react differently to different surfaces, leaving a different texture that will be noticeable.
That is the entire point of primer. You paint primer over the mixed surface, the primer seals it, and after 1-2 coats (possibly with some help from sanding or filler in between primer coats) you have a surface that is uniform (consistent/the same) - it's all dried primer. The topcoat applies evenly.
Primer also causes the color to be uniform, because otherwise, underlying different colors will print through (most architectural coatings are near-white, and white paint isn't that opaque).
Primer is optimized to do this. It's also cheaper. Paint can do this too, but it'll take ridiculous numbers of coats of it.
answered 2 days ago
HarperHarper
76.3k449153
Sanding a primer is not a concept I'm familiar with
– DaveM
2 days ago
@DaveM, primer can sometimes make issues worse, or it can react a little with the surface. To get a really even coverage, sanding rough or "odd" spots and reapplying primer can help the end coat.
– computercarguy
2 days ago
Thanks, understood, it also gums up my sandpaper.
– DaveM
2 days ago
@DaveM because you're sanding too soon. Wait for it to dry. Yes, applying primer can make a few surfaces bumpy, but, most likely paint would do the same thing. Primer "springs the trap" as it were, then freezes it so it won't do it anymore. At least that's the idea. Also, you often sand just because the surface was already rough and that becomes more visible once primer gives it a uniform appearance.
– Harper
2 days ago
add a comment |
It sounds like the joint compound was applied over a paste residue that is reactivating from the moisture in the paint.
It can be very near impossible to get all adhesive washed off of the surface.
That is why I always use a sealer before patching.
Best one I have used is Gardz by Zinnser. It creates a thin barrier coat that locks down containment’s on the surface. After it drys do your patching and sanding followed by spot priming of repairs with same product. –
answered 2 days ago
KrisKris
1,0341611
I've seen that, but I'm pretty good about getting it clean. If I find a patch I missed, I immediately scrape off the wet paint and glue from the spot, and repaint.
– DaveM
2 days ago
add a comment |
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4 Answers
4
active
oldest
votes
4 Answers
4
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
A primer is recommended for joint compound. Using a primer seals the mud and actually uses less paint with a even finish in the long run.
answered 2 days ago
Ed BealEd Beal
34.8k12149
4
The most significant benefit is more even sheen in the finished product.
– isherwood
2 days ago
add a comment |
A primer is recommended for joint compound. Using a primer seals the mud and actually uses less paint with a even finish in the long run.
answered 2 days ago
Ed BealEd Beal
34.8k12149
4
The most significant benefit is more even sheen in the finished product.
– isherwood
2 days ago
add a comment |
A primer is recommended for joint compound. Using a primer seals the mud and actually uses less paint with a even finish in the long run.
answered 2 days ago
Ed BealEd Beal
34.8k12149
A primer is recommended for joint compound. Using a primer seals the mud and actually uses less paint with a even finish in the long run.
answered 2 days ago
Ed BealEd Beal
34.8k12149
answered 2 days ago
Ed BealEd Beal
34.8k12149
answered 2 days ago
Ed BealEd Beal
34.8k12149
answered 2 days ago
Ed BealEd Beal
34.8k12149
34.8k12149
4
The most significant benefit is more even sheen in the finished product.
– isherwood
2 days ago
add a comment |
4
The most significant benefit is more even sheen in the finished product.
– isherwood
2 days ago
4
4
The most significant benefit is more even sheen in the finished product.
– isherwood
2 days ago
The most significant benefit is more even sheen in the finished product.
– isherwood
2 days ago
add a comment |
If you find you're doing a lot of patches, buy some "new drywall" primer. It's cheaper and helps you get the new compound ready for paint just as well (it's also latex). It generally is only available in gallons, though (with the assumption you've done a whole room in drywall)
If you're not doing a LOT of patches, consider using a better patch. Joint compound is different from vinyl spackle, and some types of spackle come pre-primed now.
answered 2 days ago
MachavityMachavity
8,27821941
1
Commonly called PVA Primer, and it can be tinted (like any other primer) to match the paint color if you're using a color other than white.
– JPhi1618
2 days ago
So you are saying use spackle instead of mud?
– DaveM
2 days ago
1
@DaveM For smaller patches, yes. Spackle doesn't shrink and tends to be a bit stiffer, so it fills larger holes better. And 3M, for instance, makes a pre-primed spackle
– Machavity
2 days ago
add a comment |
If you find you're doing a lot of patches, buy some "new drywall" primer. It's cheaper and helps you get the new compound ready for paint just as well (it's also latex). It generally is only available in gallons, though (with the assumption you've done a whole room in drywall)
If you're not doing a LOT of patches, consider using a better patch. Joint compound is different from vinyl spackle, and some types of spackle come pre-primed now.
answered 2 days ago
MachavityMachavity
8,27821941
1
Commonly called PVA Primer, and it can be tinted (like any other primer) to match the paint color if you're using a color other than white.
– JPhi1618
2 days ago
So you are saying use spackle instead of mud?
– DaveM
2 days ago
1
@DaveM For smaller patches, yes. Spackle doesn't shrink and tends to be a bit stiffer, so it fills larger holes better. And 3M, for instance, makes a pre-primed spackle
– Machavity
2 days ago
add a comment |
If you find you're doing a lot of patches, buy some "new drywall" primer. It's cheaper and helps you get the new compound ready for paint just as well (it's also latex). It generally is only available in gallons, though (with the assumption you've done a whole room in drywall)
If you're not doing a LOT of patches, consider using a better patch. Joint compound is different from vinyl spackle, and some types of spackle come pre-primed now.
answered 2 days ago
MachavityMachavity
8,27821941
If you find you're doing a lot of patches, buy some "new drywall" primer. It's cheaper and helps you get the new compound ready for paint just as well (it's also latex). It generally is only available in gallons, though (with the assumption you've done a whole room in drywall)
If you're not doing a LOT of patches, consider using a better patch. Joint compound is different from vinyl spackle, and some types of spackle come pre-primed now.
answered 2 days ago
MachavityMachavity
8,27821941
answered 2 days ago
MachavityMachavity
8,27821941
answered 2 days ago
MachavityMachavity
8,27821941
answered 2 days ago
MachavityMachavity
8,27821941
8,27821941
1
Commonly called PVA Primer, and it can be tinted (like any other primer) to match the paint color if you're using a color other than white.
– JPhi1618
2 days ago
So you are saying use spackle instead of mud?
– DaveM
2 days ago
1
@DaveM For smaller patches, yes. Spackle doesn't shrink and tends to be a bit stiffer, so it fills larger holes better. And 3M, for instance, makes a pre-primed spackle
– Machavity
2 days ago
add a comment |
1
Commonly called PVA Primer, and it can be tinted (like any other primer) to match the paint color if you're using a color other than white.
– JPhi1618
2 days ago
So you are saying use spackle instead of mud?
– DaveM
2 days ago
1
@DaveM For smaller patches, yes. Spackle doesn't shrink and tends to be a bit stiffer, so it fills larger holes better. And 3M, for instance, makes a pre-primed spackle
– Machavity
2 days ago
1
1
Commonly called PVA Primer, and it can be tinted (like any other primer) to match the paint color if you're using a color other than white.
– JPhi1618
2 days ago
Commonly called PVA Primer, and it can be tinted (like any other primer) to match the paint color if you're using a color other than white.
– JPhi1618
2 days ago
So you are saying use spackle instead of mud?
– DaveM
2 days ago
So you are saying use spackle instead of mud?
– DaveM
2 days ago
1
1
@DaveM For smaller patches, yes. Spackle doesn't shrink and tends to be a bit stiffer, so it fills larger holes better. And 3M, for instance, makes a pre-primed spackle
– Machavity
2 days ago
@DaveM For smaller patches, yes. Spackle doesn't shrink and tends to be a bit stiffer, so it fills larger holes better. And 3M, for instance, makes a pre-primed spackle
– Machavity
2 days ago
add a comment |
Huh? Of course you will. Always.
Anytime you put topcoat paint on a surface that is inconsistent, it will show inconsistent results. The topcoat will react differently to different surfaces, leaving a different texture that will be noticeable.
That is the entire point of primer. You paint primer over the mixed surface, the primer seals it, and after 1-2 coats (possibly with some help from sanding or filler in between primer coats) you have a surface that is uniform (consistent/the same) - it's all dried primer. The topcoat applies evenly.
Primer also causes the color to be uniform, because otherwise, underlying different colors will print through (most architectural coatings are near-white, and white paint isn't that opaque).
Primer is optimized to do this. It's also cheaper. Paint can do this too, but it'll take ridiculous numbers of coats of it.
answered 2 days ago
HarperHarper
76.3k449153
Sanding a primer is not a concept I'm familiar with
– DaveM
2 days ago
@DaveM, primer can sometimes make issues worse, or it can react a little with the surface. To get a really even coverage, sanding rough or "odd" spots and reapplying primer can help the end coat.
– computercarguy
2 days ago
Thanks, understood, it also gums up my sandpaper.
– DaveM
2 days ago
@DaveM because you're sanding too soon. Wait for it to dry. Yes, applying primer can make a few surfaces bumpy, but, most likely paint would do the same thing. Primer "springs the trap" as it were, then freezes it so it won't do it anymore. At least that's the idea. Also, you often sand just because the surface was already rough and that becomes more visible once primer gives it a uniform appearance.
– Harper
2 days ago
add a comment |
Huh? Of course you will. Always.
Anytime you put topcoat paint on a surface that is inconsistent, it will show inconsistent results. The topcoat will react differently to different surfaces, leaving a different texture that will be noticeable.
That is the entire point of primer. You paint primer over the mixed surface, the primer seals it, and after 1-2 coats (possibly with some help from sanding or filler in between primer coats) you have a surface that is uniform (consistent/the same) - it's all dried primer. The topcoat applies evenly.
Primer also causes the color to be uniform, because otherwise, underlying different colors will print through (most architectural coatings are near-white, and white paint isn't that opaque).
Primer is optimized to do this. It's also cheaper. Paint can do this too, but it'll take ridiculous numbers of coats of it.
answered 2 days ago
HarperHarper
76.3k449153
Sanding a primer is not a concept I'm familiar with
– DaveM
2 days ago
@DaveM, primer can sometimes make issues worse, or it can react a little with the surface. To get a really even coverage, sanding rough or "odd" spots and reapplying primer can help the end coat.
– computercarguy
2 days ago
Thanks, understood, it also gums up my sandpaper.
– DaveM
2 days ago
@DaveM because you're sanding too soon. Wait for it to dry. Yes, applying primer can make a few surfaces bumpy, but, most likely paint would do the same thing. Primer "springs the trap" as it were, then freezes it so it won't do it anymore. At least that's the idea. Also, you often sand just because the surface was already rough and that becomes more visible once primer gives it a uniform appearance.
– Harper
2 days ago
add a comment |
Huh? Of course you will. Always.
Anytime you put topcoat paint on a surface that is inconsistent, it will show inconsistent results. The topcoat will react differently to different surfaces, leaving a different texture that will be noticeable.
That is the entire point of primer. You paint primer over the mixed surface, the primer seals it, and after 1-2 coats (possibly with some help from sanding or filler in between primer coats) you have a surface that is uniform (consistent/the same) - it's all dried primer. The topcoat applies evenly.
Primer also causes the color to be uniform, because otherwise, underlying different colors will print through (most architectural coatings are near-white, and white paint isn't that opaque).
Primer is optimized to do this. It's also cheaper. Paint can do this too, but it'll take ridiculous numbers of coats of it.
answered 2 days ago
HarperHarper
76.3k449153
Huh? Of course you will. Always.
Anytime you put topcoat paint on a surface that is inconsistent, it will show inconsistent results. The topcoat will react differently to different surfaces, leaving a different texture that will be noticeable.
That is the entire point of primer. You paint primer over the mixed surface, the primer seals it, and after 1-2 coats (possibly with some help from sanding or filler in between primer coats) you have a surface that is uniform (consistent/the same) - it's all dried primer. The topcoat applies evenly.
Primer also causes the color to be uniform, because otherwise, underlying different colors will print through (most architectural coatings are near-white, and white paint isn't that opaque).
Primer is optimized to do this. It's also cheaper. Paint can do this too, but it'll take ridiculous numbers of coats of it.
answered 2 days ago
HarperHarper
76.3k449153
answered 2 days ago
HarperHarper
76.3k449153
answered 2 days ago
HarperHarper
76.3k449153
answered 2 days ago
HarperHarper
76.3k449153
76.3k449153
Sanding a primer is not a concept I'm familiar with
– DaveM
2 days ago
@DaveM, primer can sometimes make issues worse, or it can react a little with the surface. To get a really even coverage, sanding rough or "odd" spots and reapplying primer can help the end coat.
– computercarguy
2 days ago
Thanks, understood, it also gums up my sandpaper.
– DaveM
2 days ago
@DaveM because you're sanding too soon. Wait for it to dry. Yes, applying primer can make a few surfaces bumpy, but, most likely paint would do the same thing. Primer "springs the trap" as it were, then freezes it so it won't do it anymore. At least that's the idea. Also, you often sand just because the surface was already rough and that becomes more visible once primer gives it a uniform appearance.
– Harper
2 days ago
add a comment |
Sanding a primer is not a concept I'm familiar with
– DaveM
2 days ago
@DaveM, primer can sometimes make issues worse, or it can react a little with the surface. To get a really even coverage, sanding rough or "odd" spots and reapplying primer can help the end coat.
– computercarguy
2 days ago
Thanks, understood, it also gums up my sandpaper.
– DaveM
2 days ago
@DaveM because you're sanding too soon. Wait for it to dry. Yes, applying primer can make a few surfaces bumpy, but, most likely paint would do the same thing. Primer "springs the trap" as it were, then freezes it so it won't do it anymore. At least that's the idea. Also, you often sand just because the surface was already rough and that becomes more visible once primer gives it a uniform appearance.
– Harper
2 days ago
Sanding a primer is not a concept I'm familiar with
– DaveM
2 days ago
Sanding a primer is not a concept I'm familiar with
– DaveM
2 days ago
@DaveM, primer can sometimes make issues worse, or it can react a little with the surface. To get a really even coverage, sanding rough or "odd" spots and reapplying primer can help the end coat.
– computercarguy
2 days ago
@DaveM, primer can sometimes make issues worse, or it can react a little with the surface. To get a really even coverage, sanding rough or "odd" spots and reapplying primer can help the end coat.
– computercarguy
2 days ago
Thanks, understood, it also gums up my sandpaper.
– DaveM
2 days ago
Thanks, understood, it also gums up my sandpaper.
– DaveM
2 days ago
@DaveM because you're sanding too soon. Wait for it to dry. Yes, applying primer can make a few surfaces bumpy, but, most likely paint would do the same thing. Primer "springs the trap" as it were, then freezes it so it won't do it anymore. At least that's the idea. Also, you often sand just because the surface was already rough and that becomes more visible once primer gives it a uniform appearance.
– Harper
2 days ago
@DaveM because you're sanding too soon. Wait for it to dry. Yes, applying primer can make a few surfaces bumpy, but, most likely paint would do the same thing. Primer "springs the trap" as it were, then freezes it so it won't do it anymore. At least that's the idea. Also, you often sand just because the surface was already rough and that becomes more visible once primer gives it a uniform appearance.
– Harper
2 days ago
add a comment |
It sounds like the joint compound was applied over a paste residue that is reactivating from the moisture in the paint.
It can be very near impossible to get all adhesive washed off of the surface.
That is why I always use a sealer before patching.
Best one I have used is Gardz by Zinnser. It creates a thin barrier coat that locks down containment’s on the surface. After it drys do your patching and sanding followed by spot priming of repairs with same product. –
answered 2 days ago
KrisKris
1,0341611
I've seen that, but I'm pretty good about getting it clean. If I find a patch I missed, I immediately scrape off the wet paint and glue from the spot, and repaint.
– DaveM
2 days ago
add a comment |
It sounds like the joint compound was applied over a paste residue that is reactivating from the moisture in the paint.
It can be very near impossible to get all adhesive washed off of the surface.
That is why I always use a sealer before patching.
Best one I have used is Gardz by Zinnser. It creates a thin barrier coat that locks down containment’s on the surface. After it drys do your patching and sanding followed by spot priming of repairs with same product. –
answered 2 days ago
KrisKris
1,0341611
I've seen that, but I'm pretty good about getting it clean. If I find a patch I missed, I immediately scrape off the wet paint and glue from the spot, and repaint.
– DaveM
2 days ago
add a comment |
It sounds like the joint compound was applied over a paste residue that is reactivating from the moisture in the paint.
It can be very near impossible to get all adhesive washed off of the surface.
That is why I always use a sealer before patching.
Best one I have used is Gardz by Zinnser. It creates a thin barrier coat that locks down containment’s on the surface. After it drys do your patching and sanding followed by spot priming of repairs with same product. –
answered 2 days ago
KrisKris
1,0341611
It sounds like the joint compound was applied over a paste residue that is reactivating from the moisture in the paint.
It can be very near impossible to get all adhesive washed off of the surface.
That is why I always use a sealer before patching.
Best one I have used is Gardz by Zinnser. It creates a thin barrier coat that locks down containment’s on the surface. After it drys do your patching and sanding followed by spot priming of repairs with same product. –
answered 2 days ago
KrisKris
1,0341611
answered 2 days ago
KrisKris
1,0341611
answered 2 days ago
KrisKris
1,0341611
answered 2 days ago
KrisKris
1,0341611
1,0341611
I've seen that, but I'm pretty good about getting it clean. If I find a patch I missed, I immediately scrape off the wet paint and glue from the spot, and repaint.
– DaveM
2 days ago
add a comment |
I've seen that, but I'm pretty good about getting it clean. If I find a patch I missed, I immediately scrape off the wet paint and glue from the spot, and repaint.
– DaveM
2 days ago
I've seen that, but I'm pretty good about getting it clean. If I find a patch I missed, I immediately scrape off the wet paint and glue from the spot, and repaint.
– DaveM
2 days ago
I've seen that, but I'm pretty good about getting it clean. If I find a patch I missed, I immediately scrape off the wet paint and glue from the spot, and repaint.
– DaveM
2 days ago
add a comment |
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Good question. I always cover those spots with a brush first, as the rolling is when it comes up for me. The downside is that it can alter the texture of the finished wall.
– Evil Elf
2 days ago
@kris, answers go down there.
– isherwood
2 days ago