What do I need to know to successfully use Taulman/Dow EVOLV3D™ USM Universal Support Material?What can I use to “sand” my ABS prints?Getting better support than Slic3r generatesSmooth finish in Slic3r using Support MaterialUsing HIPS as support for PLA printing?Filament not feeding then eventually blockedSupport material first layer adhesion issues3D printing template materialHow do PLA, PETG, TPU, ABS and/or nylon work together in a single print?
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What do I need to know to successfully use Taulman/Dow EVOLV3D™ USM Universal Support Material?
What can I use to “sand” my ABS prints?Getting better support than Slic3r generatesSmooth finish in Slic3r using Support MaterialUsing HIPS as support for PLA printing?Filament not feeding then eventually blockedSupport material first layer adhesion issues3D printing template materialHow do PLA, PETG, TPU, ABS and/or nylon work together in a single print?
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$begingroup$
Taulman3D advertises a soluble support material (EVOLV3D™ USM Universal Support Material) that handles temperatures appropriate for nylon and is completely safe to flush down the drain. There's very little about how to print with it successfully, however, or how to remove it after printing.
Other than the documented (wide) print temperature range (200-250 °C), what do I need to know?
filament support-material
edited Sep 30 at 21:23
0scar♦
19.5k4 gold badges27 silver badges76 bronze badges
asked Sep 30 at 13:21
Charles DuffyCharles Duffy
3339 bronze badges
$endgroup$
add a comment
|
$begingroup$
Taulman3D advertises a soluble support material (EVOLV3D™ USM Universal Support Material) that handles temperatures appropriate for nylon and is completely safe to flush down the drain. There's very little about how to print with it successfully, however, or how to remove it after printing.
Other than the documented (wide) print temperature range (200-250 °C), what do I need to know?
filament support-material
edited Sep 30 at 21:23
0scar♦
19.5k4 gold badges27 silver badges76 bronze badges
asked Sep 30 at 13:21
Charles DuffyCharles Duffy
3339 bronze badges
$endgroup$
add a comment
|
$begingroup$
Taulman3D advertises a soluble support material (EVOLV3D™ USM Universal Support Material) that handles temperatures appropriate for nylon and is completely safe to flush down the drain. There's very little about how to print with it successfully, however, or how to remove it after printing.
Other than the documented (wide) print temperature range (200-250 °C), what do I need to know?
filament support-material
edited Sep 30 at 21:23
0scar♦
19.5k4 gold badges27 silver badges76 bronze badges
asked Sep 30 at 13:21
Charles DuffyCharles Duffy
3339 bronze badges
$endgroup$
Taulman3D advertises a soluble support material (EVOLV3D™ USM Universal Support Material) that handles temperatures appropriate for nylon and is completely safe to flush down the drain. There's very little about how to print with it successfully, however, or how to remove it after printing.
Other than the documented (wide) print temperature range (200-250 °C), what do I need to know?
filament support-material
filament support-material
edited Sep 30 at 21:23
0scar♦
19.5k4 gold badges27 silver badges76 bronze badges
asked Sep 30 at 13:21
Charles DuffyCharles Duffy
3339 bronze badges
edited Sep 30 at 21:23
0scar♦
19.5k4 gold badges27 silver badges76 bronze badges
asked Sep 30 at 13:21
Charles DuffyCharles Duffy
3339 bronze badges
edited Sep 30 at 21:23
0scar♦
19.5k4 gold badges27 silver badges76 bronze badges
edited Sep 30 at 21:23
0scar♦
19.5k4 gold badges27 silver badges76 bronze badges
edited Sep 30 at 21:23
0scar♦
19.5k4 gold badges27 silver badges76 bronze badges
19.5k4 gold badges27 silver badges76 bronze badges
asked Sep 30 at 13:21
Charles DuffyCharles Duffy
3339 bronze badges
asked Sep 30 at 13:21
Charles DuffyCharles Duffy
3339 bronze badges
asked Sep 30 at 13:21
Charles DuffyCharles Duffy
3339 bronze badges
3339 bronze badges
add a comment
|
add a comment
|
1 Answer
1
active
oldest
votes
$begingroup$
Advice From Taulman
On emailing Taulman asking for advice (after getting some initial failed prints), they responded with the following:
[...W]e use the following settings. Support:
- Flow 115 %
- Infill = 8-10 %
- 2 full surfaces at 100 %
- Support speed 50 % of print speed.
What I've learned trying to apply that advice:
- Turning the flow percentage up as advised is a good idea.
- 17 mm/s is definitely much too fast for this material -- at that speed it's more likely to stick to the nozzle than to the base layer -- but at 8.5 mm/s it prints well.
- The advice to keep the infill percentage low is solid if you want to be able to mechanically remove any readily accessible sections. I've tried a print with 30 % infill after trying to diagnose a failure (more on that below), and while the print came out well, the support infill couldn't be mechanically removed, and was also very slow to dissolve (see below).
On Support Removal
At Taulman's recommended 10 %-or-below infill percentage, any accessible parts can be mechanically removed. At 30 %, that's not really possible anymore -- though 5-10 minutes in boiling water might get the edges loosened up enough to let the bulk of the material be scooped away.
If you're just going to let it sit in tap water that isn't being circulated, expect that to take a long time, and to have several cycles of scraping out material that's turned to a gel to allow more to be exposed.
Using boiling water speeds the process substantially. If you're using USM with a nylon (or other material that's safe to bring to 100 °C), do that.
How's Its Adherence To Nylon?
Not as strong as its adherence to itself. If you print a ceiling of USM on top of support infill of nylon, it's possible for that ceiling to come away with the print head; thus, it reduces risk of failed prints to use USM for the infill as well.
Thus, the "2 full surfaces at 100 %" advice given by Taulman above isn't (as I interpret it) just about ensuring that there's a successfully-printed support floor or ceiling; it's also about ensuring that there's enough surface area between the support floor and the nylon of the main print for them to adhere.
answered Sep 30 at 13:21
Charles DuffyCharles Duffy
3339 bronze badges
$endgroup$
$begingroup$
Thanks for sharing your experience with this filament! Please don't forget to accept your answer (self answered questions can be accepted after 48 hours after posting)!
$endgroup$
– 0scar♦
Oct 1 at 7:10
add a comment
|
Your Answer
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1 Answer
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oldest
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1 Answer
1
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oldest
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active
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active
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votes
$begingroup$
Advice From Taulman
On emailing Taulman asking for advice (after getting some initial failed prints), they responded with the following:
[...W]e use the following settings. Support:
- Flow 115 %
- Infill = 8-10 %
- 2 full surfaces at 100 %
- Support speed 50 % of print speed.
What I've learned trying to apply that advice:
- Turning the flow percentage up as advised is a good idea.
- 17 mm/s is definitely much too fast for this material -- at that speed it's more likely to stick to the nozzle than to the base layer -- but at 8.5 mm/s it prints well.
- The advice to keep the infill percentage low is solid if you want to be able to mechanically remove any readily accessible sections. I've tried a print with 30 % infill after trying to diagnose a failure (more on that below), and while the print came out well, the support infill couldn't be mechanically removed, and was also very slow to dissolve (see below).
On Support Removal
At Taulman's recommended 10 %-or-below infill percentage, any accessible parts can be mechanically removed. At 30 %, that's not really possible anymore -- though 5-10 minutes in boiling water might get the edges loosened up enough to let the bulk of the material be scooped away.
If you're just going to let it sit in tap water that isn't being circulated, expect that to take a long time, and to have several cycles of scraping out material that's turned to a gel to allow more to be exposed.
Using boiling water speeds the process substantially. If you're using USM with a nylon (or other material that's safe to bring to 100 °C), do that.
How's Its Adherence To Nylon?
Not as strong as its adherence to itself. If you print a ceiling of USM on top of support infill of nylon, it's possible for that ceiling to come away with the print head; thus, it reduces risk of failed prints to use USM for the infill as well.
Thus, the "2 full surfaces at 100 %" advice given by Taulman above isn't (as I interpret it) just about ensuring that there's a successfully-printed support floor or ceiling; it's also about ensuring that there's enough surface area between the support floor and the nylon of the main print for them to adhere.
answered Sep 30 at 13:21
Charles DuffyCharles Duffy
3339 bronze badges
$endgroup$
$begingroup$
Thanks for sharing your experience with this filament! Please don't forget to accept your answer (self answered questions can be accepted after 48 hours after posting)!
$endgroup$
– 0scar♦
Oct 1 at 7:10
add a comment
|
$begingroup$
Advice From Taulman
On emailing Taulman asking for advice (after getting some initial failed prints), they responded with the following:
[...W]e use the following settings. Support:
- Flow 115 %
- Infill = 8-10 %
- 2 full surfaces at 100 %
- Support speed 50 % of print speed.
What I've learned trying to apply that advice:
- Turning the flow percentage up as advised is a good idea.
- 17 mm/s is definitely much too fast for this material -- at that speed it's more likely to stick to the nozzle than to the base layer -- but at 8.5 mm/s it prints well.
- The advice to keep the infill percentage low is solid if you want to be able to mechanically remove any readily accessible sections. I've tried a print with 30 % infill after trying to diagnose a failure (more on that below), and while the print came out well, the support infill couldn't be mechanically removed, and was also very slow to dissolve (see below).
On Support Removal
At Taulman's recommended 10 %-or-below infill percentage, any accessible parts can be mechanically removed. At 30 %, that's not really possible anymore -- though 5-10 minutes in boiling water might get the edges loosened up enough to let the bulk of the material be scooped away.
If you're just going to let it sit in tap water that isn't being circulated, expect that to take a long time, and to have several cycles of scraping out material that's turned to a gel to allow more to be exposed.
Using boiling water speeds the process substantially. If you're using USM with a nylon (or other material that's safe to bring to 100 °C), do that.
How's Its Adherence To Nylon?
Not as strong as its adherence to itself. If you print a ceiling of USM on top of support infill of nylon, it's possible for that ceiling to come away with the print head; thus, it reduces risk of failed prints to use USM for the infill as well.
Thus, the "2 full surfaces at 100 %" advice given by Taulman above isn't (as I interpret it) just about ensuring that there's a successfully-printed support floor or ceiling; it's also about ensuring that there's enough surface area between the support floor and the nylon of the main print for them to adhere.
answered Sep 30 at 13:21
Charles DuffyCharles Duffy
3339 bronze badges
$endgroup$
$begingroup$
Thanks for sharing your experience with this filament! Please don't forget to accept your answer (self answered questions can be accepted after 48 hours after posting)!
$endgroup$
– 0scar♦
Oct 1 at 7:10
add a comment
|
$begingroup$
Advice From Taulman
On emailing Taulman asking for advice (after getting some initial failed prints), they responded with the following:
[...W]e use the following settings. Support:
- Flow 115 %
- Infill = 8-10 %
- 2 full surfaces at 100 %
- Support speed 50 % of print speed.
What I've learned trying to apply that advice:
- Turning the flow percentage up as advised is a good idea.
- 17 mm/s is definitely much too fast for this material -- at that speed it's more likely to stick to the nozzle than to the base layer -- but at 8.5 mm/s it prints well.
- The advice to keep the infill percentage low is solid if you want to be able to mechanically remove any readily accessible sections. I've tried a print with 30 % infill after trying to diagnose a failure (more on that below), and while the print came out well, the support infill couldn't be mechanically removed, and was also very slow to dissolve (see below).
On Support Removal
At Taulman's recommended 10 %-or-below infill percentage, any accessible parts can be mechanically removed. At 30 %, that's not really possible anymore -- though 5-10 minutes in boiling water might get the edges loosened up enough to let the bulk of the material be scooped away.
If you're just going to let it sit in tap water that isn't being circulated, expect that to take a long time, and to have several cycles of scraping out material that's turned to a gel to allow more to be exposed.
Using boiling water speeds the process substantially. If you're using USM with a nylon (or other material that's safe to bring to 100 °C), do that.
How's Its Adherence To Nylon?
Not as strong as its adherence to itself. If you print a ceiling of USM on top of support infill of nylon, it's possible for that ceiling to come away with the print head; thus, it reduces risk of failed prints to use USM for the infill as well.
Thus, the "2 full surfaces at 100 %" advice given by Taulman above isn't (as I interpret it) just about ensuring that there's a successfully-printed support floor or ceiling; it's also about ensuring that there's enough surface area between the support floor and the nylon of the main print for them to adhere.
answered Sep 30 at 13:21
Charles DuffyCharles Duffy
3339 bronze badges
$endgroup$
Advice From Taulman
On emailing Taulman asking for advice (after getting some initial failed prints), they responded with the following:
[...W]e use the following settings. Support:
- Flow 115 %
- Infill = 8-10 %
- 2 full surfaces at 100 %
- Support speed 50 % of print speed.
What I've learned trying to apply that advice:
- Turning the flow percentage up as advised is a good idea.
- 17 mm/s is definitely much too fast for this material -- at that speed it's more likely to stick to the nozzle than to the base layer -- but at 8.5 mm/s it prints well.
- The advice to keep the infill percentage low is solid if you want to be able to mechanically remove any readily accessible sections. I've tried a print with 30 % infill after trying to diagnose a failure (more on that below), and while the print came out well, the support infill couldn't be mechanically removed, and was also very slow to dissolve (see below).
On Support Removal
At Taulman's recommended 10 %-or-below infill percentage, any accessible parts can be mechanically removed. At 30 %, that's not really possible anymore -- though 5-10 minutes in boiling water might get the edges loosened up enough to let the bulk of the material be scooped away.
If you're just going to let it sit in tap water that isn't being circulated, expect that to take a long time, and to have several cycles of scraping out material that's turned to a gel to allow more to be exposed.
Using boiling water speeds the process substantially. If you're using USM with a nylon (or other material that's safe to bring to 100 °C), do that.
How's Its Adherence To Nylon?
Not as strong as its adherence to itself. If you print a ceiling of USM on top of support infill of nylon, it's possible for that ceiling to come away with the print head; thus, it reduces risk of failed prints to use USM for the infill as well.
Thus, the "2 full surfaces at 100 %" advice given by Taulman above isn't (as I interpret it) just about ensuring that there's a successfully-printed support floor or ceiling; it's also about ensuring that there's enough surface area between the support floor and the nylon of the main print for them to adhere.
answered Sep 30 at 13:21
Charles DuffyCharles Duffy
3339 bronze badges
edited Sep 30 at 22:01
answered Sep 30 at 13:21
Charles DuffyCharles Duffy
3339 bronze badges
answered Sep 30 at 13:21
Charles DuffyCharles Duffy
3339 bronze badges
answered Sep 30 at 13:21
Charles DuffyCharles Duffy
3339 bronze badges
3339 bronze badges
$begingroup$
Thanks for sharing your experience with this filament! Please don't forget to accept your answer (self answered questions can be accepted after 48 hours after posting)!
$endgroup$
– 0scar♦
Oct 1 at 7:10
add a comment
|
$begingroup$
Thanks for sharing your experience with this filament! Please don't forget to accept your answer (self answered questions can be accepted after 48 hours after posting)!
$endgroup$
– 0scar♦
Oct 1 at 7:10
$begingroup$
Thanks for sharing your experience with this filament! Please don't forget to accept your answer (self answered questions can be accepted after 48 hours after posting)!
$endgroup$
– 0scar♦
Oct 1 at 7:10
$begingroup$
Thanks for sharing your experience with this filament! Please don't forget to accept your answer (self answered questions can be accepted after 48 hours after posting)!
$endgroup$
– 0scar♦
Oct 1 at 7:10
add a comment
|
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