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Safely hang a mirror that does not have hooks
What can I use to hang a frameless mirror?What's the right name of the things that mount a frameless mirror to the wall through the mirror?How do I hang a large wall to wall mirror?I'm looking for a drywall finish that will hold a magnetMounting a 32" LED TV to Dry Wall without Stud SupportHow to hang a heavy mirror with rotating support hinges?Hanging a heavy object with the help of a plywood beam (due to a mismatch with studs)Hang a mirror with keyhole slotare there places that can duplicate a vanity mirror? or places to re silver an old mirror?
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I would like to safely secure a mirror to the drywall. The mirror itself is pretty light (probably under 5kg), the weight is not an issue. However, its back surface does not have any hooks or anything that can be used to secure it. I was going to use a string and some nails, but I am not sure it will work, the wooden part is really thin. Any ideas? Perhaps, some adhesive tape?
UPDATE
Thanks everyone for your answers. All of them are great, it's hard (perhaps, impossible) to pick the best one. Because the mirror is light, I decided to use a wire and small eye bolts attached to the sides of my mirror.
drywall hanging mirror
add a comment
|
I would like to safely secure a mirror to the drywall. The mirror itself is pretty light (probably under 5kg), the weight is not an issue. However, its back surface does not have any hooks or anything that can be used to secure it. I was going to use a string and some nails, but I am not sure it will work, the wooden part is really thin. Any ideas? Perhaps, some adhesive tape?
UPDATE
Thanks everyone for your answers. All of them are great, it's hard (perhaps, impossible) to pick the best one. Because the mirror is light, I decided to use a wire and small eye bolts attached to the sides of my mirror.
drywall hanging mirror
2
amazon.com/CRL-Standard-Round-Mirror-Clip/dp/B00269UM74
– samerivertwice
Sep 19 at 14:38
How much does it weigh? Can we get a 3/4-side shot picture?
– Arluin
Sep 19 at 16:33
google.com/…
– Strawberry
Sep 20 at 14:19
@Arluin, hard to tell, definitely no more than 5 kgs.
– slava-kohut
Sep 20 at 21:42
mirror mastic
– ron
Sep 26 at 22:23
add a comment
|
I would like to safely secure a mirror to the drywall. The mirror itself is pretty light (probably under 5kg), the weight is not an issue. However, its back surface does not have any hooks or anything that can be used to secure it. I was going to use a string and some nails, but I am not sure it will work, the wooden part is really thin. Any ideas? Perhaps, some adhesive tape?
UPDATE
Thanks everyone for your answers. All of them are great, it's hard (perhaps, impossible) to pick the best one. Because the mirror is light, I decided to use a wire and small eye bolts attached to the sides of my mirror.
drywall hanging mirror
I would like to safely secure a mirror to the drywall. The mirror itself is pretty light (probably under 5kg), the weight is not an issue. However, its back surface does not have any hooks or anything that can be used to secure it. I was going to use a string and some nails, but I am not sure it will work, the wooden part is really thin. Any ideas? Perhaps, some adhesive tape?
UPDATE
Thanks everyone for your answers. All of them are great, it's hard (perhaps, impossible) to pick the best one. Because the mirror is light, I decided to use a wire and small eye bolts attached to the sides of my mirror.
drywall hanging mirror
drywall hanging mirror
edited Sep 26 at 14:55
slava-kohut
asked Sep 17 at 23:03
slava-kohutslava-kohut
2511 silver badge7 bronze badges
2511 silver badge7 bronze badges
2
amazon.com/CRL-Standard-Round-Mirror-Clip/dp/B00269UM74
– samerivertwice
Sep 19 at 14:38
How much does it weigh? Can we get a 3/4-side shot picture?
– Arluin
Sep 19 at 16:33
google.com/…
– Strawberry
Sep 20 at 14:19
@Arluin, hard to tell, definitely no more than 5 kgs.
– slava-kohut
Sep 20 at 21:42
mirror mastic
– ron
Sep 26 at 22:23
add a comment
|
2
amazon.com/CRL-Standard-Round-Mirror-Clip/dp/B00269UM74
– samerivertwice
Sep 19 at 14:38
How much does it weigh? Can we get a 3/4-side shot picture?
– Arluin
Sep 19 at 16:33
google.com/…
– Strawberry
Sep 20 at 14:19
@Arluin, hard to tell, definitely no more than 5 kgs.
– slava-kohut
Sep 20 at 21:42
mirror mastic
– ron
Sep 26 at 22:23
2
2
amazon.com/CRL-Standard-Round-Mirror-Clip/dp/B00269UM74
– samerivertwice
Sep 19 at 14:38
amazon.com/CRL-Standard-Round-Mirror-Clip/dp/B00269UM74
– samerivertwice
Sep 19 at 14:38
How much does it weigh? Can we get a 3/4-side shot picture?
– Arluin
Sep 19 at 16:33
How much does it weigh? Can we get a 3/4-side shot picture?
– Arluin
Sep 19 at 16:33
google.com/…
– Strawberry
Sep 20 at 14:19
google.com/…
– Strawberry
Sep 20 at 14:19
@Arluin, hard to tell, definitely no more than 5 kgs.
– slava-kohut
Sep 20 at 21:42
@Arluin, hard to tell, definitely no more than 5 kgs.
– slava-kohut
Sep 20 at 21:42
mirror mastic
– ron
Sep 26 at 22:23
mirror mastic
– ron
Sep 26 at 22:23
add a comment
|
10 Answers
10
active
oldest
votes
Mirror clips are made for exactly this purpose. Plain or fancy as fits your decor and/or budget.
8
mirror clips are for bare glass, that mirror appears to have been framed
– Jasen
Sep 18 at 8:32
3
Make sure the clips are large enough. It's a fairly large mirror after all.
– Mast
Sep 18 at 9:16
7
I've seen people try to use mirror hanging clips on frames this thick, and not only is it ugly, it's not a very solid fastening. It becomes a screw sticking out of a wall with a bit of plastic on the end attempting to hold things together, and eventually failing, due to the screw being levered out of the wall, leaving a large gash that needs to be fixed. I've yet to find mirror clips that are designed for a frame.
– computercarguy
Sep 18 at 17:54
add a comment
|
If that mirror has a wooden frame you can attach picture hanging brackets.
the frame looks to be about 10mm thick which is plenty.
1
Your ability to measure the frame thickness (described by the OP as "really thin") from that picture is incredible. In the dictionary sense of what incredible means...
– Ecnerwal
Sep 19 at 13:23
5
That's a very accurate estimate. It's indeed roughly 10 mm thick.
– slava-kohut
Sep 19 at 14:45
2
If @slava feels that 10mm is too thin for the weight of the glass (requiring very short screws) I'd glue additional strips of wood to the frame (about 100mm long, 25mm wide and 10mm thick) and screw through both. Use pilot holes and check screw length carefully.
– Robin Bennett
Sep 19 at 15:06
add a comment
|
If the mirror doesn't weigh much more than 15 pounds, you could use some Command picture hanging strips (such as these or these). They're easy to install and relatively inexpensive.
add a comment
|
Another option is a french cleat. You really, really, don't want mirrors to fall off the wall. They shatter and explode and if there is any biological unit in the area they are likely to get cut (not to mention any heart attacks from the explosion or the seven years bad luck).
You can buy one (e.g.: https://www.amazon.com/Hangman-Z-Hanger-Mirror-Picture-Aluminum/dp/B002NEFF7Y/ref=asc_df_B002NEFF7Y/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198097826602&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16069312577621920230&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031347&hvtargid=aud-801381245258:pla-321036497668&psc=1)
Or make one from a piece of wood: https://www.instructables.com/id/French-Cleat/
If you do make one from wood, you'll probably need either two (top and bottom of mirror) or a bolster at the bottom if you want the mirror to hang parallel with the wall. Sometimes having the mirror angled slightly down is desired.
The mirror frame is only 10 mm thick, I don't think that's enough to use it
– slava-kohut
Sep 18 at 20:24
2
@slava: You could glue a wooden cleat to the back of the mirror frame. There's loads of area for a glue joint - it would be strong enough to take a persons weight. Most wood glues will stick to paper, and you could add small screws if you really wanted.
– Robin Bennett
Sep 19 at 15:02
1
@RobinBennett, I'd avoid attaching anything to the paper backing. Those become detached all too easily. Also, the frame is painted, so the glue isn't likely to stick to that as well as bare wood, and even if it does, the paint won't stick to the wood as well as the wood glue.
– computercarguy
Sep 19 at 15:54
add a comment
|
I mounted a similar mirror to a wall by drilling symmetrically-spaced holes through the frame (about one per six inches of frame perimeter) and screwing the mirror directly to the drywall using appropriate-length black phosphate coarse thread drywall screws.
In my case the the holes in the frame were acceptable, and due to the dark red-brown color of the frame the black screw heads were all but invisible. (Spacing them carefully also helped reduce the visual impact, and I believe I placed them in a valley in the molding profile to further hide them.)
When doing it this way you gain the opportunity to align either the center or one side of the mirror over a stud, and use appropriate-length longer screws to get extra holding strength at the stud.
add a comment
|
Screws
You might consider double headed nails or screws. I like screws, since nails can work out of the wall.
The link below would be a good style, and the last pic shows exactly how it would work with your mirror. This style also allows for adding D-rings, wire, or sawtooth hangers (even though the "artist" is wrong about the orientation of the sawtooth hanger as well as what a keyhole looks like). With your mirror, you can even use this style bare, although it would have a tendency to walk off the head and it would damage the paper backing.
I'm only suggesting these specific screws because they have a nice long shank between the heads. I'm sure the OP can find similar ones at a different retailers. Also, the variety of images in this listing are useful.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RQWQP5Q/ref=sspa_dk_detail_8?psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyVUtYNlVLODFLOEw0JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNzI1NDAxQU1CWk9aNk1HNjRRJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA0NjA2NTMxV1JMM1dFRFlOTEs0JndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfZGV0YWlsMiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
You can add D-rings without too much trouble and, with a pilot hole, without splitting the frame. Using screws will prevent damaging the frame and the mirror from shattering that a hammer and nails would almost guarantee. Adding a wire is almost a guarantee it won't be straight, and adding sawtooth hangers is definitely a guarantee of it being crooked, unless you add two of them. Usually sawtooth hangers are attached by nails, as I've already warned against.
Hooks
You can also try hooks like these, but they might also allow the mirror to walk off the end and would damage the paper backing. These can also be used with D-rings and wires, but generally not with sawtooth hangers.
add a comment
|
Mirror clips come in many thickness sizes. Choose one with adequate gap to mirror and use _|— to fasten with exposed screw, but allow mirror to be flush. Use a small < 1cm square double sided tape in middle if it bulges out but permits removal.
If the mirror is bulging in the middle, that means they need more fasteners, not tape. As small a piece of tape as you're suggesting, it's not going to do much good. Also, a bulging mirror is likely to slip out of the top clips and come crashing down.
– computercarguy
Sep 19 at 15:52
mirrors are not that thin that they require side fasteners, just bottom and top.
– Tony Stewart Sunnyskyguy EE75
Sep 19 at 18:51
I've seen mirrors like this bow because of their length and cheap construction, and you are the one that mentions bulging.
– computercarguy
Sep 19 at 19:24
I have used this method on tall narrow mirrors with centre tape to make it more rigid to the wall, but more side fasteners is certainly an option if that secures the middle.
– Tony Stewart Sunnyskyguy EE75
Sep 19 at 19:50
add a comment
|
Mirrors are often mounted simply using double-sided adhesive tape. Just google "adhesive tape mirror", and you'll find a lot of products from all brands. You'll find those in your local depot, too.
Just be aware that there are two kind of double-sided tape: one that is very thin, and one that is thicker (~2mm), with a core made of foam. If the wall surface isn't perfectly smooth (e.g. a drywall painted with a roller typically isn't smooth enough), you need to use the foam type.
Also, be aware that, if you ever plan to remove the mirror, the tape may be strong enough that you can't just unstick it without risking breaking it.
2
command velcro strips may be a solution if you want to be able to remove it.
– Jasen
Sep 18 at 8:26
3
Store decorators love to do it in an even more drastic way: Glue it on, whole area. Remove with hammer when you no longer want the mirror.
– rackandboneman
Sep 18 at 8:26
12
It might also be worth noting that doing this will attach the mirror to the top layer of paint (or wallpaper etc.) on the wall. Depending on the type of paint / wallpaper and what's under it (e.g. if the wall has been repainted many times without the old paint being removed) there's a risk that, even if the wall and the tape are both strong enough to support the mirror, the paint isn't and will come off the wall.
– Ilmari Karonen
Sep 18 at 8:36
1
@J... I guess it depends on your situation: I have a mirror like that in a toilet room. I know that if I ever have to remove it, that could only be for two reasons: 1) it is broken and needs to be replaced (and I don't really care breaking it more in the process, and I don't care sratching the wall behind either), or 2) I want to put the whole wall down because I'm reorganizing the room distributions. As for the tape lifetime, I'm not worried at all. These products are made to last. I had to remove some which was there since decades on a piece of furniture, and it wasn't easy.
– dim
Sep 18 at 12:39
1
This looks to be paper backed, so you'd risk the paper ripping at any time. Using tape would be a nightmare to remove, probably damaging the wall and the mirror.
– computercarguy
Sep 18 at 16:50
|
show 5 more comments
You could use a shelf with a ledge on the end like this:
or possibly
amazon link
to secure the mirror.
But what secures the top of the mirror?
– einpoklum - reinstate Monica
Sep 24 at 13:39
add a comment
|
You can get mirror brackets/clips intended specifically for this use. Here are two examples:
(of course, you need to get ones in a matching color and texture or color them yourself etc.)
As for placing them, you have multiple options:
- One bracket at the center of each of the four sides of the mirror (top, bottom, left, right)
- Two brackets at 1/5 and 4/5 of the bottom and the top (or even closer to the left and right edges)
- Two brackets at the bottom and the top + two brackets at 1/2 of the left and right sides.
- Some brackets are intended for corners; in that case it's one at each of the four corners.
- etc. etc.
Here's an example of option 2:
add a comment
|
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10 Answers
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active
oldest
votes
10 Answers
10
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
Mirror clips are made for exactly this purpose. Plain or fancy as fits your decor and/or budget.
8
mirror clips are for bare glass, that mirror appears to have been framed
– Jasen
Sep 18 at 8:32
3
Make sure the clips are large enough. It's a fairly large mirror after all.
– Mast
Sep 18 at 9:16
7
I've seen people try to use mirror hanging clips on frames this thick, and not only is it ugly, it's not a very solid fastening. It becomes a screw sticking out of a wall with a bit of plastic on the end attempting to hold things together, and eventually failing, due to the screw being levered out of the wall, leaving a large gash that needs to be fixed. I've yet to find mirror clips that are designed for a frame.
– computercarguy
Sep 18 at 17:54
add a comment
|
Mirror clips are made for exactly this purpose. Plain or fancy as fits your decor and/or budget.
8
mirror clips are for bare glass, that mirror appears to have been framed
– Jasen
Sep 18 at 8:32
3
Make sure the clips are large enough. It's a fairly large mirror after all.
– Mast
Sep 18 at 9:16
7
I've seen people try to use mirror hanging clips on frames this thick, and not only is it ugly, it's not a very solid fastening. It becomes a screw sticking out of a wall with a bit of plastic on the end attempting to hold things together, and eventually failing, due to the screw being levered out of the wall, leaving a large gash that needs to be fixed. I've yet to find mirror clips that are designed for a frame.
– computercarguy
Sep 18 at 17:54
add a comment
|
Mirror clips are made for exactly this purpose. Plain or fancy as fits your decor and/or budget.
Mirror clips are made for exactly this purpose. Plain or fancy as fits your decor and/or budget.
answered Sep 17 at 23:42
EcnerwalEcnerwal
63.6k4 gold badges54 silver badges110 bronze badges
63.6k4 gold badges54 silver badges110 bronze badges
8
mirror clips are for bare glass, that mirror appears to have been framed
– Jasen
Sep 18 at 8:32
3
Make sure the clips are large enough. It's a fairly large mirror after all.
– Mast
Sep 18 at 9:16
7
I've seen people try to use mirror hanging clips on frames this thick, and not only is it ugly, it's not a very solid fastening. It becomes a screw sticking out of a wall with a bit of plastic on the end attempting to hold things together, and eventually failing, due to the screw being levered out of the wall, leaving a large gash that needs to be fixed. I've yet to find mirror clips that are designed for a frame.
– computercarguy
Sep 18 at 17:54
add a comment
|
8
mirror clips are for bare glass, that mirror appears to have been framed
– Jasen
Sep 18 at 8:32
3
Make sure the clips are large enough. It's a fairly large mirror after all.
– Mast
Sep 18 at 9:16
7
I've seen people try to use mirror hanging clips on frames this thick, and not only is it ugly, it's not a very solid fastening. It becomes a screw sticking out of a wall with a bit of plastic on the end attempting to hold things together, and eventually failing, due to the screw being levered out of the wall, leaving a large gash that needs to be fixed. I've yet to find mirror clips that are designed for a frame.
– computercarguy
Sep 18 at 17:54
8
8
mirror clips are for bare glass, that mirror appears to have been framed
– Jasen
Sep 18 at 8:32
mirror clips are for bare glass, that mirror appears to have been framed
– Jasen
Sep 18 at 8:32
3
3
Make sure the clips are large enough. It's a fairly large mirror after all.
– Mast
Sep 18 at 9:16
Make sure the clips are large enough. It's a fairly large mirror after all.
– Mast
Sep 18 at 9:16
7
7
I've seen people try to use mirror hanging clips on frames this thick, and not only is it ugly, it's not a very solid fastening. It becomes a screw sticking out of a wall with a bit of plastic on the end attempting to hold things together, and eventually failing, due to the screw being levered out of the wall, leaving a large gash that needs to be fixed. I've yet to find mirror clips that are designed for a frame.
– computercarguy
Sep 18 at 17:54
I've seen people try to use mirror hanging clips on frames this thick, and not only is it ugly, it's not a very solid fastening. It becomes a screw sticking out of a wall with a bit of plastic on the end attempting to hold things together, and eventually failing, due to the screw being levered out of the wall, leaving a large gash that needs to be fixed. I've yet to find mirror clips that are designed for a frame.
– computercarguy
Sep 18 at 17:54
add a comment
|
If that mirror has a wooden frame you can attach picture hanging brackets.
the frame looks to be about 10mm thick which is plenty.
1
Your ability to measure the frame thickness (described by the OP as "really thin") from that picture is incredible. In the dictionary sense of what incredible means...
– Ecnerwal
Sep 19 at 13:23
5
That's a very accurate estimate. It's indeed roughly 10 mm thick.
– slava-kohut
Sep 19 at 14:45
2
If @slava feels that 10mm is too thin for the weight of the glass (requiring very short screws) I'd glue additional strips of wood to the frame (about 100mm long, 25mm wide and 10mm thick) and screw through both. Use pilot holes and check screw length carefully.
– Robin Bennett
Sep 19 at 15:06
add a comment
|
If that mirror has a wooden frame you can attach picture hanging brackets.
the frame looks to be about 10mm thick which is plenty.
1
Your ability to measure the frame thickness (described by the OP as "really thin") from that picture is incredible. In the dictionary sense of what incredible means...
– Ecnerwal
Sep 19 at 13:23
5
That's a very accurate estimate. It's indeed roughly 10 mm thick.
– slava-kohut
Sep 19 at 14:45
2
If @slava feels that 10mm is too thin for the weight of the glass (requiring very short screws) I'd glue additional strips of wood to the frame (about 100mm long, 25mm wide and 10mm thick) and screw through both. Use pilot holes and check screw length carefully.
– Robin Bennett
Sep 19 at 15:06
add a comment
|
If that mirror has a wooden frame you can attach picture hanging brackets.
the frame looks to be about 10mm thick which is plenty.
If that mirror has a wooden frame you can attach picture hanging brackets.
the frame looks to be about 10mm thick which is plenty.
answered Sep 18 at 8:33
JasenJasen
2,5621 gold badge6 silver badges12 bronze badges
2,5621 gold badge6 silver badges12 bronze badges
1
Your ability to measure the frame thickness (described by the OP as "really thin") from that picture is incredible. In the dictionary sense of what incredible means...
– Ecnerwal
Sep 19 at 13:23
5
That's a very accurate estimate. It's indeed roughly 10 mm thick.
– slava-kohut
Sep 19 at 14:45
2
If @slava feels that 10mm is too thin for the weight of the glass (requiring very short screws) I'd glue additional strips of wood to the frame (about 100mm long, 25mm wide and 10mm thick) and screw through both. Use pilot holes and check screw length carefully.
– Robin Bennett
Sep 19 at 15:06
add a comment
|
1
Your ability to measure the frame thickness (described by the OP as "really thin") from that picture is incredible. In the dictionary sense of what incredible means...
– Ecnerwal
Sep 19 at 13:23
5
That's a very accurate estimate. It's indeed roughly 10 mm thick.
– slava-kohut
Sep 19 at 14:45
2
If @slava feels that 10mm is too thin for the weight of the glass (requiring very short screws) I'd glue additional strips of wood to the frame (about 100mm long, 25mm wide and 10mm thick) and screw through both. Use pilot holes and check screw length carefully.
– Robin Bennett
Sep 19 at 15:06
1
1
Your ability to measure the frame thickness (described by the OP as "really thin") from that picture is incredible. In the dictionary sense of what incredible means...
– Ecnerwal
Sep 19 at 13:23
Your ability to measure the frame thickness (described by the OP as "really thin") from that picture is incredible. In the dictionary sense of what incredible means...
– Ecnerwal
Sep 19 at 13:23
5
5
That's a very accurate estimate. It's indeed roughly 10 mm thick.
– slava-kohut
Sep 19 at 14:45
That's a very accurate estimate. It's indeed roughly 10 mm thick.
– slava-kohut
Sep 19 at 14:45
2
2
If @slava feels that 10mm is too thin for the weight of the glass (requiring very short screws) I'd glue additional strips of wood to the frame (about 100mm long, 25mm wide and 10mm thick) and screw through both. Use pilot holes and check screw length carefully.
– Robin Bennett
Sep 19 at 15:06
If @slava feels that 10mm is too thin for the weight of the glass (requiring very short screws) I'd glue additional strips of wood to the frame (about 100mm long, 25mm wide and 10mm thick) and screw through both. Use pilot holes and check screw length carefully.
– Robin Bennett
Sep 19 at 15:06
add a comment
|
If the mirror doesn't weigh much more than 15 pounds, you could use some Command picture hanging strips (such as these or these). They're easy to install and relatively inexpensive.
add a comment
|
If the mirror doesn't weigh much more than 15 pounds, you could use some Command picture hanging strips (such as these or these). They're easy to install and relatively inexpensive.
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If the mirror doesn't weigh much more than 15 pounds, you could use some Command picture hanging strips (such as these or these). They're easy to install and relatively inexpensive.
If the mirror doesn't weigh much more than 15 pounds, you could use some Command picture hanging strips (such as these or these). They're easy to install and relatively inexpensive.
answered Sep 18 at 20:25
Jim FellJim Fell
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Another option is a french cleat. You really, really, don't want mirrors to fall off the wall. They shatter and explode and if there is any biological unit in the area they are likely to get cut (not to mention any heart attacks from the explosion or the seven years bad luck).
You can buy one (e.g.: https://www.amazon.com/Hangman-Z-Hanger-Mirror-Picture-Aluminum/dp/B002NEFF7Y/ref=asc_df_B002NEFF7Y/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198097826602&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16069312577621920230&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031347&hvtargid=aud-801381245258:pla-321036497668&psc=1)
Or make one from a piece of wood: https://www.instructables.com/id/French-Cleat/
If you do make one from wood, you'll probably need either two (top and bottom of mirror) or a bolster at the bottom if you want the mirror to hang parallel with the wall. Sometimes having the mirror angled slightly down is desired.
The mirror frame is only 10 mm thick, I don't think that's enough to use it
– slava-kohut
Sep 18 at 20:24
2
@slava: You could glue a wooden cleat to the back of the mirror frame. There's loads of area for a glue joint - it would be strong enough to take a persons weight. Most wood glues will stick to paper, and you could add small screws if you really wanted.
– Robin Bennett
Sep 19 at 15:02
1
@RobinBennett, I'd avoid attaching anything to the paper backing. Those become detached all too easily. Also, the frame is painted, so the glue isn't likely to stick to that as well as bare wood, and even if it does, the paint won't stick to the wood as well as the wood glue.
– computercarguy
Sep 19 at 15:54
add a comment
|
Another option is a french cleat. You really, really, don't want mirrors to fall off the wall. They shatter and explode and if there is any biological unit in the area they are likely to get cut (not to mention any heart attacks from the explosion or the seven years bad luck).
You can buy one (e.g.: https://www.amazon.com/Hangman-Z-Hanger-Mirror-Picture-Aluminum/dp/B002NEFF7Y/ref=asc_df_B002NEFF7Y/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198097826602&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16069312577621920230&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031347&hvtargid=aud-801381245258:pla-321036497668&psc=1)
Or make one from a piece of wood: https://www.instructables.com/id/French-Cleat/
If you do make one from wood, you'll probably need either two (top and bottom of mirror) or a bolster at the bottom if you want the mirror to hang parallel with the wall. Sometimes having the mirror angled slightly down is desired.
The mirror frame is only 10 mm thick, I don't think that's enough to use it
– slava-kohut
Sep 18 at 20:24
2
@slava: You could glue a wooden cleat to the back of the mirror frame. There's loads of area for a glue joint - it would be strong enough to take a persons weight. Most wood glues will stick to paper, and you could add small screws if you really wanted.
– Robin Bennett
Sep 19 at 15:02
1
@RobinBennett, I'd avoid attaching anything to the paper backing. Those become detached all too easily. Also, the frame is painted, so the glue isn't likely to stick to that as well as bare wood, and even if it does, the paint won't stick to the wood as well as the wood glue.
– computercarguy
Sep 19 at 15:54
add a comment
|
Another option is a french cleat. You really, really, don't want mirrors to fall off the wall. They shatter and explode and if there is any biological unit in the area they are likely to get cut (not to mention any heart attacks from the explosion or the seven years bad luck).
You can buy one (e.g.: https://www.amazon.com/Hangman-Z-Hanger-Mirror-Picture-Aluminum/dp/B002NEFF7Y/ref=asc_df_B002NEFF7Y/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198097826602&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16069312577621920230&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031347&hvtargid=aud-801381245258:pla-321036497668&psc=1)
Or make one from a piece of wood: https://www.instructables.com/id/French-Cleat/
If you do make one from wood, you'll probably need either two (top and bottom of mirror) or a bolster at the bottom if you want the mirror to hang parallel with the wall. Sometimes having the mirror angled slightly down is desired.
Another option is a french cleat. You really, really, don't want mirrors to fall off the wall. They shatter and explode and if there is any biological unit in the area they are likely to get cut (not to mention any heart attacks from the explosion or the seven years bad luck).
You can buy one (e.g.: https://www.amazon.com/Hangman-Z-Hanger-Mirror-Picture-Aluminum/dp/B002NEFF7Y/ref=asc_df_B002NEFF7Y/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198097826602&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16069312577621920230&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031347&hvtargid=aud-801381245258:pla-321036497668&psc=1)
Or make one from a piece of wood: https://www.instructables.com/id/French-Cleat/
If you do make one from wood, you'll probably need either two (top and bottom of mirror) or a bolster at the bottom if you want the mirror to hang parallel with the wall. Sometimes having the mirror angled slightly down is desired.
answered Sep 18 at 20:14
ArluinArluin
7793 silver badges7 bronze badges
7793 silver badges7 bronze badges
The mirror frame is only 10 mm thick, I don't think that's enough to use it
– slava-kohut
Sep 18 at 20:24
2
@slava: You could glue a wooden cleat to the back of the mirror frame. There's loads of area for a glue joint - it would be strong enough to take a persons weight. Most wood glues will stick to paper, and you could add small screws if you really wanted.
– Robin Bennett
Sep 19 at 15:02
1
@RobinBennett, I'd avoid attaching anything to the paper backing. Those become detached all too easily. Also, the frame is painted, so the glue isn't likely to stick to that as well as bare wood, and even if it does, the paint won't stick to the wood as well as the wood glue.
– computercarguy
Sep 19 at 15:54
add a comment
|
The mirror frame is only 10 mm thick, I don't think that's enough to use it
– slava-kohut
Sep 18 at 20:24
2
@slava: You could glue a wooden cleat to the back of the mirror frame. There's loads of area for a glue joint - it would be strong enough to take a persons weight. Most wood glues will stick to paper, and you could add small screws if you really wanted.
– Robin Bennett
Sep 19 at 15:02
1
@RobinBennett, I'd avoid attaching anything to the paper backing. Those become detached all too easily. Also, the frame is painted, so the glue isn't likely to stick to that as well as bare wood, and even if it does, the paint won't stick to the wood as well as the wood glue.
– computercarguy
Sep 19 at 15:54
The mirror frame is only 10 mm thick, I don't think that's enough to use it
– slava-kohut
Sep 18 at 20:24
The mirror frame is only 10 mm thick, I don't think that's enough to use it
– slava-kohut
Sep 18 at 20:24
2
2
@slava: You could glue a wooden cleat to the back of the mirror frame. There's loads of area for a glue joint - it would be strong enough to take a persons weight. Most wood glues will stick to paper, and you could add small screws if you really wanted.
– Robin Bennett
Sep 19 at 15:02
@slava: You could glue a wooden cleat to the back of the mirror frame. There's loads of area for a glue joint - it would be strong enough to take a persons weight. Most wood glues will stick to paper, and you could add small screws if you really wanted.
– Robin Bennett
Sep 19 at 15:02
1
1
@RobinBennett, I'd avoid attaching anything to the paper backing. Those become detached all too easily. Also, the frame is painted, so the glue isn't likely to stick to that as well as bare wood, and even if it does, the paint won't stick to the wood as well as the wood glue.
– computercarguy
Sep 19 at 15:54
@RobinBennett, I'd avoid attaching anything to the paper backing. Those become detached all too easily. Also, the frame is painted, so the glue isn't likely to stick to that as well as bare wood, and even if it does, the paint won't stick to the wood as well as the wood glue.
– computercarguy
Sep 19 at 15:54
add a comment
|
I mounted a similar mirror to a wall by drilling symmetrically-spaced holes through the frame (about one per six inches of frame perimeter) and screwing the mirror directly to the drywall using appropriate-length black phosphate coarse thread drywall screws.
In my case the the holes in the frame were acceptable, and due to the dark red-brown color of the frame the black screw heads were all but invisible. (Spacing them carefully also helped reduce the visual impact, and I believe I placed them in a valley in the molding profile to further hide them.)
When doing it this way you gain the opportunity to align either the center or one side of the mirror over a stud, and use appropriate-length longer screws to get extra holding strength at the stud.
add a comment
|
I mounted a similar mirror to a wall by drilling symmetrically-spaced holes through the frame (about one per six inches of frame perimeter) and screwing the mirror directly to the drywall using appropriate-length black phosphate coarse thread drywall screws.
In my case the the holes in the frame were acceptable, and due to the dark red-brown color of the frame the black screw heads were all but invisible. (Spacing them carefully also helped reduce the visual impact, and I believe I placed them in a valley in the molding profile to further hide them.)
When doing it this way you gain the opportunity to align either the center or one side of the mirror over a stud, and use appropriate-length longer screws to get extra holding strength at the stud.
add a comment
|
I mounted a similar mirror to a wall by drilling symmetrically-spaced holes through the frame (about one per six inches of frame perimeter) and screwing the mirror directly to the drywall using appropriate-length black phosphate coarse thread drywall screws.
In my case the the holes in the frame were acceptable, and due to the dark red-brown color of the frame the black screw heads were all but invisible. (Spacing them carefully also helped reduce the visual impact, and I believe I placed them in a valley in the molding profile to further hide them.)
When doing it this way you gain the opportunity to align either the center or one side of the mirror over a stud, and use appropriate-length longer screws to get extra holding strength at the stud.
I mounted a similar mirror to a wall by drilling symmetrically-spaced holes through the frame (about one per six inches of frame perimeter) and screwing the mirror directly to the drywall using appropriate-length black phosphate coarse thread drywall screws.
In my case the the holes in the frame were acceptable, and due to the dark red-brown color of the frame the black screw heads were all but invisible. (Spacing them carefully also helped reduce the visual impact, and I believe I placed them in a valley in the molding profile to further hide them.)
When doing it this way you gain the opportunity to align either the center or one side of the mirror over a stud, and use appropriate-length longer screws to get extra holding strength at the stud.
answered Sep 18 at 18:42
X GoodrichX Goodrich
1912 bronze badges
1912 bronze badges
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Screws
You might consider double headed nails or screws. I like screws, since nails can work out of the wall.
The link below would be a good style, and the last pic shows exactly how it would work with your mirror. This style also allows for adding D-rings, wire, or sawtooth hangers (even though the "artist" is wrong about the orientation of the sawtooth hanger as well as what a keyhole looks like). With your mirror, you can even use this style bare, although it would have a tendency to walk off the head and it would damage the paper backing.
I'm only suggesting these specific screws because they have a nice long shank between the heads. I'm sure the OP can find similar ones at a different retailers. Also, the variety of images in this listing are useful.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RQWQP5Q/ref=sspa_dk_detail_8?psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyVUtYNlVLODFLOEw0JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNzI1NDAxQU1CWk9aNk1HNjRRJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA0NjA2NTMxV1JMM1dFRFlOTEs0JndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfZGV0YWlsMiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
You can add D-rings without too much trouble and, with a pilot hole, without splitting the frame. Using screws will prevent damaging the frame and the mirror from shattering that a hammer and nails would almost guarantee. Adding a wire is almost a guarantee it won't be straight, and adding sawtooth hangers is definitely a guarantee of it being crooked, unless you add two of them. Usually sawtooth hangers are attached by nails, as I've already warned against.
Hooks
You can also try hooks like these, but they might also allow the mirror to walk off the end and would damage the paper backing. These can also be used with D-rings and wires, but generally not with sawtooth hangers.
add a comment
|
Screws
You might consider double headed nails or screws. I like screws, since nails can work out of the wall.
The link below would be a good style, and the last pic shows exactly how it would work with your mirror. This style also allows for adding D-rings, wire, or sawtooth hangers (even though the "artist" is wrong about the orientation of the sawtooth hanger as well as what a keyhole looks like). With your mirror, you can even use this style bare, although it would have a tendency to walk off the head and it would damage the paper backing.
I'm only suggesting these specific screws because they have a nice long shank between the heads. I'm sure the OP can find similar ones at a different retailers. Also, the variety of images in this listing are useful.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RQWQP5Q/ref=sspa_dk_detail_8?psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyVUtYNlVLODFLOEw0JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNzI1NDAxQU1CWk9aNk1HNjRRJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA0NjA2NTMxV1JMM1dFRFlOTEs0JndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfZGV0YWlsMiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
You can add D-rings without too much trouble and, with a pilot hole, without splitting the frame. Using screws will prevent damaging the frame and the mirror from shattering that a hammer and nails would almost guarantee. Adding a wire is almost a guarantee it won't be straight, and adding sawtooth hangers is definitely a guarantee of it being crooked, unless you add two of them. Usually sawtooth hangers are attached by nails, as I've already warned against.
Hooks
You can also try hooks like these, but they might also allow the mirror to walk off the end and would damage the paper backing. These can also be used with D-rings and wires, but generally not with sawtooth hangers.
add a comment
|
Screws
You might consider double headed nails or screws. I like screws, since nails can work out of the wall.
The link below would be a good style, and the last pic shows exactly how it would work with your mirror. This style also allows for adding D-rings, wire, or sawtooth hangers (even though the "artist" is wrong about the orientation of the sawtooth hanger as well as what a keyhole looks like). With your mirror, you can even use this style bare, although it would have a tendency to walk off the head and it would damage the paper backing.
I'm only suggesting these specific screws because they have a nice long shank between the heads. I'm sure the OP can find similar ones at a different retailers. Also, the variety of images in this listing are useful.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RQWQP5Q/ref=sspa_dk_detail_8?psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyVUtYNlVLODFLOEw0JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNzI1NDAxQU1CWk9aNk1HNjRRJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA0NjA2NTMxV1JMM1dFRFlOTEs0JndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfZGV0YWlsMiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
You can add D-rings without too much trouble and, with a pilot hole, without splitting the frame. Using screws will prevent damaging the frame and the mirror from shattering that a hammer and nails would almost guarantee. Adding a wire is almost a guarantee it won't be straight, and adding sawtooth hangers is definitely a guarantee of it being crooked, unless you add two of them. Usually sawtooth hangers are attached by nails, as I've already warned against.
Hooks
You can also try hooks like these, but they might also allow the mirror to walk off the end and would damage the paper backing. These can also be used with D-rings and wires, but generally not with sawtooth hangers.
Screws
You might consider double headed nails or screws. I like screws, since nails can work out of the wall.
The link below would be a good style, and the last pic shows exactly how it would work with your mirror. This style also allows for adding D-rings, wire, or sawtooth hangers (even though the "artist" is wrong about the orientation of the sawtooth hanger as well as what a keyhole looks like). With your mirror, you can even use this style bare, although it would have a tendency to walk off the head and it would damage the paper backing.
I'm only suggesting these specific screws because they have a nice long shank between the heads. I'm sure the OP can find similar ones at a different retailers. Also, the variety of images in this listing are useful.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RQWQP5Q/ref=sspa_dk_detail_8?psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyVUtYNlVLODFLOEw0JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNzI1NDAxQU1CWk9aNk1HNjRRJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA0NjA2NTMxV1JMM1dFRFlOTEs0JndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfZGV0YWlsMiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
You can add D-rings without too much trouble and, with a pilot hole, without splitting the frame. Using screws will prevent damaging the frame and the mirror from shattering that a hammer and nails would almost guarantee. Adding a wire is almost a guarantee it won't be straight, and adding sawtooth hangers is definitely a guarantee of it being crooked, unless you add two of them. Usually sawtooth hangers are attached by nails, as I've already warned against.
Hooks
You can also try hooks like these, but they might also allow the mirror to walk off the end and would damage the paper backing. These can also be used with D-rings and wires, but generally not with sawtooth hangers.
edited Sep 19 at 15:56
answered Sep 18 at 17:17
computercarguycomputercarguy
5112 silver badges10 bronze badges
5112 silver badges10 bronze badges
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Mirror clips come in many thickness sizes. Choose one with adequate gap to mirror and use _|— to fasten with exposed screw, but allow mirror to be flush. Use a small < 1cm square double sided tape in middle if it bulges out but permits removal.
If the mirror is bulging in the middle, that means they need more fasteners, not tape. As small a piece of tape as you're suggesting, it's not going to do much good. Also, a bulging mirror is likely to slip out of the top clips and come crashing down.
– computercarguy
Sep 19 at 15:52
mirrors are not that thin that they require side fasteners, just bottom and top.
– Tony Stewart Sunnyskyguy EE75
Sep 19 at 18:51
I've seen mirrors like this bow because of their length and cheap construction, and you are the one that mentions bulging.
– computercarguy
Sep 19 at 19:24
I have used this method on tall narrow mirrors with centre tape to make it more rigid to the wall, but more side fasteners is certainly an option if that secures the middle.
– Tony Stewart Sunnyskyguy EE75
Sep 19 at 19:50
add a comment
|
Mirror clips come in many thickness sizes. Choose one with adequate gap to mirror and use _|— to fasten with exposed screw, but allow mirror to be flush. Use a small < 1cm square double sided tape in middle if it bulges out but permits removal.
If the mirror is bulging in the middle, that means they need more fasteners, not tape. As small a piece of tape as you're suggesting, it's not going to do much good. Also, a bulging mirror is likely to slip out of the top clips and come crashing down.
– computercarguy
Sep 19 at 15:52
mirrors are not that thin that they require side fasteners, just bottom and top.
– Tony Stewart Sunnyskyguy EE75
Sep 19 at 18:51
I've seen mirrors like this bow because of their length and cheap construction, and you are the one that mentions bulging.
– computercarguy
Sep 19 at 19:24
I have used this method on tall narrow mirrors with centre tape to make it more rigid to the wall, but more side fasteners is certainly an option if that secures the middle.
– Tony Stewart Sunnyskyguy EE75
Sep 19 at 19:50
add a comment
|
Mirror clips come in many thickness sizes. Choose one with adequate gap to mirror and use _|— to fasten with exposed screw, but allow mirror to be flush. Use a small < 1cm square double sided tape in middle if it bulges out but permits removal.
Mirror clips come in many thickness sizes. Choose one with adequate gap to mirror and use _|— to fasten with exposed screw, but allow mirror to be flush. Use a small < 1cm square double sided tape in middle if it bulges out but permits removal.
answered Sep 18 at 8:46
Tony Stewart Sunnyskyguy EE75Tony Stewart Sunnyskyguy EE75
2921 silver badge8 bronze badges
2921 silver badge8 bronze badges
If the mirror is bulging in the middle, that means they need more fasteners, not tape. As small a piece of tape as you're suggesting, it's not going to do much good. Also, a bulging mirror is likely to slip out of the top clips and come crashing down.
– computercarguy
Sep 19 at 15:52
mirrors are not that thin that they require side fasteners, just bottom and top.
– Tony Stewart Sunnyskyguy EE75
Sep 19 at 18:51
I've seen mirrors like this bow because of their length and cheap construction, and you are the one that mentions bulging.
– computercarguy
Sep 19 at 19:24
I have used this method on tall narrow mirrors with centre tape to make it more rigid to the wall, but more side fasteners is certainly an option if that secures the middle.
– Tony Stewart Sunnyskyguy EE75
Sep 19 at 19:50
add a comment
|
If the mirror is bulging in the middle, that means they need more fasteners, not tape. As small a piece of tape as you're suggesting, it's not going to do much good. Also, a bulging mirror is likely to slip out of the top clips and come crashing down.
– computercarguy
Sep 19 at 15:52
mirrors are not that thin that they require side fasteners, just bottom and top.
– Tony Stewart Sunnyskyguy EE75
Sep 19 at 18:51
I've seen mirrors like this bow because of their length and cheap construction, and you are the one that mentions bulging.
– computercarguy
Sep 19 at 19:24
I have used this method on tall narrow mirrors with centre tape to make it more rigid to the wall, but more side fasteners is certainly an option if that secures the middle.
– Tony Stewart Sunnyskyguy EE75
Sep 19 at 19:50
If the mirror is bulging in the middle, that means they need more fasteners, not tape. As small a piece of tape as you're suggesting, it's not going to do much good. Also, a bulging mirror is likely to slip out of the top clips and come crashing down.
– computercarguy
Sep 19 at 15:52
If the mirror is bulging in the middle, that means they need more fasteners, not tape. As small a piece of tape as you're suggesting, it's not going to do much good. Also, a bulging mirror is likely to slip out of the top clips and come crashing down.
– computercarguy
Sep 19 at 15:52
mirrors are not that thin that they require side fasteners, just bottom and top.
– Tony Stewart Sunnyskyguy EE75
Sep 19 at 18:51
mirrors are not that thin that they require side fasteners, just bottom and top.
– Tony Stewart Sunnyskyguy EE75
Sep 19 at 18:51
I've seen mirrors like this bow because of their length and cheap construction, and you are the one that mentions bulging.
– computercarguy
Sep 19 at 19:24
I've seen mirrors like this bow because of their length and cheap construction, and you are the one that mentions bulging.
– computercarguy
Sep 19 at 19:24
I have used this method on tall narrow mirrors with centre tape to make it more rigid to the wall, but more side fasteners is certainly an option if that secures the middle.
– Tony Stewart Sunnyskyguy EE75
Sep 19 at 19:50
I have used this method on tall narrow mirrors with centre tape to make it more rigid to the wall, but more side fasteners is certainly an option if that secures the middle.
– Tony Stewart Sunnyskyguy EE75
Sep 19 at 19:50
add a comment
|
Mirrors are often mounted simply using double-sided adhesive tape. Just google "adhesive tape mirror", and you'll find a lot of products from all brands. You'll find those in your local depot, too.
Just be aware that there are two kind of double-sided tape: one that is very thin, and one that is thicker (~2mm), with a core made of foam. If the wall surface isn't perfectly smooth (e.g. a drywall painted with a roller typically isn't smooth enough), you need to use the foam type.
Also, be aware that, if you ever plan to remove the mirror, the tape may be strong enough that you can't just unstick it without risking breaking it.
2
command velcro strips may be a solution if you want to be able to remove it.
– Jasen
Sep 18 at 8:26
3
Store decorators love to do it in an even more drastic way: Glue it on, whole area. Remove with hammer when you no longer want the mirror.
– rackandboneman
Sep 18 at 8:26
12
It might also be worth noting that doing this will attach the mirror to the top layer of paint (or wallpaper etc.) on the wall. Depending on the type of paint / wallpaper and what's under it (e.g. if the wall has been repainted many times without the old paint being removed) there's a risk that, even if the wall and the tape are both strong enough to support the mirror, the paint isn't and will come off the wall.
– Ilmari Karonen
Sep 18 at 8:36
1
@J... I guess it depends on your situation: I have a mirror like that in a toilet room. I know that if I ever have to remove it, that could only be for two reasons: 1) it is broken and needs to be replaced (and I don't really care breaking it more in the process, and I don't care sratching the wall behind either), or 2) I want to put the whole wall down because I'm reorganizing the room distributions. As for the tape lifetime, I'm not worried at all. These products are made to last. I had to remove some which was there since decades on a piece of furniture, and it wasn't easy.
– dim
Sep 18 at 12:39
1
This looks to be paper backed, so you'd risk the paper ripping at any time. Using tape would be a nightmare to remove, probably damaging the wall and the mirror.
– computercarguy
Sep 18 at 16:50
|
show 5 more comments
Mirrors are often mounted simply using double-sided adhesive tape. Just google "adhesive tape mirror", and you'll find a lot of products from all brands. You'll find those in your local depot, too.
Just be aware that there are two kind of double-sided tape: one that is very thin, and one that is thicker (~2mm), with a core made of foam. If the wall surface isn't perfectly smooth (e.g. a drywall painted with a roller typically isn't smooth enough), you need to use the foam type.
Also, be aware that, if you ever plan to remove the mirror, the tape may be strong enough that you can't just unstick it without risking breaking it.
2
command velcro strips may be a solution if you want to be able to remove it.
– Jasen
Sep 18 at 8:26
3
Store decorators love to do it in an even more drastic way: Glue it on, whole area. Remove with hammer when you no longer want the mirror.
– rackandboneman
Sep 18 at 8:26
12
It might also be worth noting that doing this will attach the mirror to the top layer of paint (or wallpaper etc.) on the wall. Depending on the type of paint / wallpaper and what's under it (e.g. if the wall has been repainted many times without the old paint being removed) there's a risk that, even if the wall and the tape are both strong enough to support the mirror, the paint isn't and will come off the wall.
– Ilmari Karonen
Sep 18 at 8:36
1
@J... I guess it depends on your situation: I have a mirror like that in a toilet room. I know that if I ever have to remove it, that could only be for two reasons: 1) it is broken and needs to be replaced (and I don't really care breaking it more in the process, and I don't care sratching the wall behind either), or 2) I want to put the whole wall down because I'm reorganizing the room distributions. As for the tape lifetime, I'm not worried at all. These products are made to last. I had to remove some which was there since decades on a piece of furniture, and it wasn't easy.
– dim
Sep 18 at 12:39
1
This looks to be paper backed, so you'd risk the paper ripping at any time. Using tape would be a nightmare to remove, probably damaging the wall and the mirror.
– computercarguy
Sep 18 at 16:50
|
show 5 more comments
Mirrors are often mounted simply using double-sided adhesive tape. Just google "adhesive tape mirror", and you'll find a lot of products from all brands. You'll find those in your local depot, too.
Just be aware that there are two kind of double-sided tape: one that is very thin, and one that is thicker (~2mm), with a core made of foam. If the wall surface isn't perfectly smooth (e.g. a drywall painted with a roller typically isn't smooth enough), you need to use the foam type.
Also, be aware that, if you ever plan to remove the mirror, the tape may be strong enough that you can't just unstick it without risking breaking it.
Mirrors are often mounted simply using double-sided adhesive tape. Just google "adhesive tape mirror", and you'll find a lot of products from all brands. You'll find those in your local depot, too.
Just be aware that there are two kind of double-sided tape: one that is very thin, and one that is thicker (~2mm), with a core made of foam. If the wall surface isn't perfectly smooth (e.g. a drywall painted with a roller typically isn't smooth enough), you need to use the foam type.
Also, be aware that, if you ever plan to remove the mirror, the tape may be strong enough that you can't just unstick it without risking breaking it.
answered Sep 18 at 7:25
dimdim
1816 bronze badges
1816 bronze badges
2
command velcro strips may be a solution if you want to be able to remove it.
– Jasen
Sep 18 at 8:26
3
Store decorators love to do it in an even more drastic way: Glue it on, whole area. Remove with hammer when you no longer want the mirror.
– rackandboneman
Sep 18 at 8:26
12
It might also be worth noting that doing this will attach the mirror to the top layer of paint (or wallpaper etc.) on the wall. Depending on the type of paint / wallpaper and what's under it (e.g. if the wall has been repainted many times without the old paint being removed) there's a risk that, even if the wall and the tape are both strong enough to support the mirror, the paint isn't and will come off the wall.
– Ilmari Karonen
Sep 18 at 8:36
1
@J... I guess it depends on your situation: I have a mirror like that in a toilet room. I know that if I ever have to remove it, that could only be for two reasons: 1) it is broken and needs to be replaced (and I don't really care breaking it more in the process, and I don't care sratching the wall behind either), or 2) I want to put the whole wall down because I'm reorganizing the room distributions. As for the tape lifetime, I'm not worried at all. These products are made to last. I had to remove some which was there since decades on a piece of furniture, and it wasn't easy.
– dim
Sep 18 at 12:39
1
This looks to be paper backed, so you'd risk the paper ripping at any time. Using tape would be a nightmare to remove, probably damaging the wall and the mirror.
– computercarguy
Sep 18 at 16:50
|
show 5 more comments
2
command velcro strips may be a solution if you want to be able to remove it.
– Jasen
Sep 18 at 8:26
3
Store decorators love to do it in an even more drastic way: Glue it on, whole area. Remove with hammer when you no longer want the mirror.
– rackandboneman
Sep 18 at 8:26
12
It might also be worth noting that doing this will attach the mirror to the top layer of paint (or wallpaper etc.) on the wall. Depending on the type of paint / wallpaper and what's under it (e.g. if the wall has been repainted many times without the old paint being removed) there's a risk that, even if the wall and the tape are both strong enough to support the mirror, the paint isn't and will come off the wall.
– Ilmari Karonen
Sep 18 at 8:36
1
@J... I guess it depends on your situation: I have a mirror like that in a toilet room. I know that if I ever have to remove it, that could only be for two reasons: 1) it is broken and needs to be replaced (and I don't really care breaking it more in the process, and I don't care sratching the wall behind either), or 2) I want to put the whole wall down because I'm reorganizing the room distributions. As for the tape lifetime, I'm not worried at all. These products are made to last. I had to remove some which was there since decades on a piece of furniture, and it wasn't easy.
– dim
Sep 18 at 12:39
1
This looks to be paper backed, so you'd risk the paper ripping at any time. Using tape would be a nightmare to remove, probably damaging the wall and the mirror.
– computercarguy
Sep 18 at 16:50
2
2
command velcro strips may be a solution if you want to be able to remove it.
– Jasen
Sep 18 at 8:26
command velcro strips may be a solution if you want to be able to remove it.
– Jasen
Sep 18 at 8:26
3
3
Store decorators love to do it in an even more drastic way: Glue it on, whole area. Remove with hammer when you no longer want the mirror.
– rackandboneman
Sep 18 at 8:26
Store decorators love to do it in an even more drastic way: Glue it on, whole area. Remove with hammer when you no longer want the mirror.
– rackandboneman
Sep 18 at 8:26
12
12
It might also be worth noting that doing this will attach the mirror to the top layer of paint (or wallpaper etc.) on the wall. Depending on the type of paint / wallpaper and what's under it (e.g. if the wall has been repainted many times without the old paint being removed) there's a risk that, even if the wall and the tape are both strong enough to support the mirror, the paint isn't and will come off the wall.
– Ilmari Karonen
Sep 18 at 8:36
It might also be worth noting that doing this will attach the mirror to the top layer of paint (or wallpaper etc.) on the wall. Depending on the type of paint / wallpaper and what's under it (e.g. if the wall has been repainted many times without the old paint being removed) there's a risk that, even if the wall and the tape are both strong enough to support the mirror, the paint isn't and will come off the wall.
– Ilmari Karonen
Sep 18 at 8:36
1
1
@J... I guess it depends on your situation: I have a mirror like that in a toilet room. I know that if I ever have to remove it, that could only be for two reasons: 1) it is broken and needs to be replaced (and I don't really care breaking it more in the process, and I don't care sratching the wall behind either), or 2) I want to put the whole wall down because I'm reorganizing the room distributions. As for the tape lifetime, I'm not worried at all. These products are made to last. I had to remove some which was there since decades on a piece of furniture, and it wasn't easy.
– dim
Sep 18 at 12:39
@J... I guess it depends on your situation: I have a mirror like that in a toilet room. I know that if I ever have to remove it, that could only be for two reasons: 1) it is broken and needs to be replaced (and I don't really care breaking it more in the process, and I don't care sratching the wall behind either), or 2) I want to put the whole wall down because I'm reorganizing the room distributions. As for the tape lifetime, I'm not worried at all. These products are made to last. I had to remove some which was there since decades on a piece of furniture, and it wasn't easy.
– dim
Sep 18 at 12:39
1
1
This looks to be paper backed, so you'd risk the paper ripping at any time. Using tape would be a nightmare to remove, probably damaging the wall and the mirror.
– computercarguy
Sep 18 at 16:50
This looks to be paper backed, so you'd risk the paper ripping at any time. Using tape would be a nightmare to remove, probably damaging the wall and the mirror.
– computercarguy
Sep 18 at 16:50
|
show 5 more comments
You could use a shelf with a ledge on the end like this:
or possibly
amazon link
to secure the mirror.
But what secures the top of the mirror?
– einpoklum - reinstate Monica
Sep 24 at 13:39
add a comment
|
You could use a shelf with a ledge on the end like this:
or possibly
amazon link
to secure the mirror.
But what secures the top of the mirror?
– einpoklum - reinstate Monica
Sep 24 at 13:39
add a comment
|
You could use a shelf with a ledge on the end like this:
or possibly
amazon link
to secure the mirror.
You could use a shelf with a ledge on the end like this:
or possibly
amazon link
to secure the mirror.
answered Sep 20 at 15:55
Max LaoaerMax Laoaer
211 bronze badge
211 bronze badge
But what secures the top of the mirror?
– einpoklum - reinstate Monica
Sep 24 at 13:39
add a comment
|
But what secures the top of the mirror?
– einpoklum - reinstate Monica
Sep 24 at 13:39
But what secures the top of the mirror?
– einpoklum - reinstate Monica
Sep 24 at 13:39
But what secures the top of the mirror?
– einpoklum - reinstate Monica
Sep 24 at 13:39
add a comment
|
You can get mirror brackets/clips intended specifically for this use. Here are two examples:
(of course, you need to get ones in a matching color and texture or color them yourself etc.)
As for placing them, you have multiple options:
- One bracket at the center of each of the four sides of the mirror (top, bottom, left, right)
- Two brackets at 1/5 and 4/5 of the bottom and the top (or even closer to the left and right edges)
- Two brackets at the bottom and the top + two brackets at 1/2 of the left and right sides.
- Some brackets are intended for corners; in that case it's one at each of the four corners.
- etc. etc.
Here's an example of option 2:
add a comment
|
You can get mirror brackets/clips intended specifically for this use. Here are two examples:
(of course, you need to get ones in a matching color and texture or color them yourself etc.)
As for placing them, you have multiple options:
- One bracket at the center of each of the four sides of the mirror (top, bottom, left, right)
- Two brackets at 1/5 and 4/5 of the bottom and the top (or even closer to the left and right edges)
- Two brackets at the bottom and the top + two brackets at 1/2 of the left and right sides.
- Some brackets are intended for corners; in that case it's one at each of the four corners.
- etc. etc.
Here's an example of option 2:
add a comment
|
You can get mirror brackets/clips intended specifically for this use. Here are two examples:
(of course, you need to get ones in a matching color and texture or color them yourself etc.)
As for placing them, you have multiple options:
- One bracket at the center of each of the four sides of the mirror (top, bottom, left, right)
- Two brackets at 1/5 and 4/5 of the bottom and the top (or even closer to the left and right edges)
- Two brackets at the bottom and the top + two brackets at 1/2 of the left and right sides.
- Some brackets are intended for corners; in that case it's one at each of the four corners.
- etc. etc.
Here's an example of option 2:
You can get mirror brackets/clips intended specifically for this use. Here are two examples:
(of course, you need to get ones in a matching color and texture or color them yourself etc.)
As for placing them, you have multiple options:
- One bracket at the center of each of the four sides of the mirror (top, bottom, left, right)
- Two brackets at 1/5 and 4/5 of the bottom and the top (or even closer to the left and right edges)
- Two brackets at the bottom and the top + two brackets at 1/2 of the left and right sides.
- Some brackets are intended for corners; in that case it's one at each of the four corners.
- etc. etc.
Here's an example of option 2:
edited Sep 24 at 14:03
answered Sep 24 at 13:45
einpoklum - reinstate Monicaeinpoklum - reinstate Monica
7256 silver badges13 bronze badges
7256 silver badges13 bronze badges
add a comment
|
add a comment
|
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amazon.com/CRL-Standard-Round-Mirror-Clip/dp/B00269UM74
– samerivertwice
Sep 19 at 14:38
How much does it weigh? Can we get a 3/4-side shot picture?
– Arluin
Sep 19 at 16:33
google.com/…
– Strawberry
Sep 20 at 14:19
@Arluin, hard to tell, definitely no more than 5 kgs.
– slava-kohut
Sep 20 at 21:42
mirror mastic
– ron
Sep 26 at 22:23